i>Mik:J'\;j.:g-'''r.k!''-.v'i^':'-- 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/acrosscontinentOOI<endrich 


I 


fiwMMikLibno 


ACBjO<§5'  TfflE 
CONTINENT 


PUGET 


MILWAUKEE  AND 
SOUND  RAILWAY 


I   I 


\ 


Across  the  Continent 


AVV.i  i/\>l     U  i 


(  ). 


m 


u.  e.  J 

tCAOKUY  OF    I 

■ciFio  o«a«t| 

HISTOHY  I 


ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT 


1 


wriU«n  ty 

laabelle  Carpenter,  Kenclall 

t^  — 


I 


■■k' 


A' 


I     CHICAGO.  MILWAUKEE  &  PUGET  SOUND  RAILWAY 


Copyri^k^     1911,    by  Geo.  W  Hibkard,  General    Passenger  A^eirt, 

SEATTLE,  WASH. 


■^A^"--'- 


"Doubtless  God  could  have  made  a  better  place  to  fish, 
but  doubtless  God  neOer  did. " 


f  32-7^/ 


'WW     \'/ 


X  I  ll!RA(^Y 


_ 

mm 

1 

i 

li 

B  ^'     "^ 

ll^         4 

m^-""^ 

-  ,^411^^1 

V"-  . 

Bst^T  i^t^Hi 

^1 

,.'=-.       '. 

=2. 

--■'^■f  -"-^I^^II^Hi 

Ii 

-■ 

THE  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  Puget  Sound  Railway,  the  Pacific 
Coast  extension  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul 
Railway,  in  the  few  years  since  its  actual  construction  was 
commenced,  has  opened  to  settlement  a  vast  new  country,  a  region 
embracing  the  far  west  Dakotas,  the  plains  and  uplands  of 
Montana,  and  the  mountains,  where  still  unknown  stores  of  minerals 
are  hidden  away.  It  has  crossed  the  Missouri  and  the  Columbia 
rivers,  the  most  famous  streams  of  this  continent,  and  penetrated 
to  the  heart  of  the  great  riches  of  Idaho  and  Washington,  to  their 
wonderful  fruit-producing  valleys,  to  the  hills,  which  carry  on  their 
rugged  slopes  unbroken  phalanxes  of  giant  timber,  sufficient  to 
supply  the  Western  Hemisphere  for  hundreds  of  years  to  come. 

From  the  Missouri  River  to  Puget  Sound  the  new  Northwest 
is  vibrant  with  life  and  responding  to  the  activities  of  busy  com- 
munities.     This   railroad   has   created   new   markets    for   eastern 
manufactures,  and  this  empire  of  the  new  West  is  producing  in 
boundless  quantity  all  that  makes  for  the  wealth  of  the  nation. 
'^  Practically  from  the  laying  of  the  first  steel  on  the  Puget  Sound 
d^.'  road  the  development  has  progressed  by  leaps  and  bounds,  and 
•"%    '  with  the  final  completion  and  the  inauguration  of  fast  passenger 
"""^  '  service  this  railroad  is  able  to  introduce  its  patrons  to  a  wide- 
spread  prospect  of  highly  cultivated  country,  to  young  cities  of 
phenomenal    growth,  to  industries  that  would    do   credit    to  old 
communities,  and  to  aiU  the  operations  and  busy  life   incident  to 
commercial  prosperity. 

Chicago  is   the  eastern   terminus   of  the   new  through   train  - 
service  and    the  route,  via  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee    &    St.  Paul   , 


t*    ^ 


A 


'^r- 


Y  V,  l\  <,^,U\    I    'i  ■■•!•'. 


\ 


Railway,  to  the  Twin  Cities  of  Minnesota  lies  through  the  garden 
of  the  Middle  West,  traversing  the  rolling  Illinois  prairies, 
Wisconsin's  hills  and  dales,  passing  along  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  in  Minnesota,  every  mile  of  which  reveals  a  picture  of 
compelling  charm.  Along  the  way  are  beautiful  cities  and  thriving 
towns,  chief  of  which  is  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin's  metropolis,  situated 
on  an  arm  of  Lake  Michigan,  whose  sweeping  shore  line  and  deep 
blue  waters  rival  the  famous  Bay  of  Naples. 

From  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis  to  Mobridge,  S.  D.,  the  St.  Paul 
Railway  traverses  some  of  the  choicest  portions  of  the  peerless 
golden  grain  belt  of  the  Northwest,  a  territory  which  not  longer 
than  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago  lay  under  the  open  sky — vast, 
treeless  and  windswept,  but  now  teeming  with  life  and  energy. 
Magnificent  fields  of  grain  ripen  under  the  harvest  sun;  busy 
towns  dot  the  plains,  and  on  every  side,  far  and  near,  are  tree- 
embowered  homesteads  which  have  grown  into  their  present 
beauty  since  the  first  railway  locomotive  poked  its  exploring  head- 
light into  the  prairie  countries.  This  portion  of  Minnesota  and 
the  Dakotas  is  a  part  of  the  greatest  agricultural  section  of  the 
United  States  and  stands  as  a  promise  of  the  wonderful  resources 
in  the  territory  of  the  newer  West.  Western  cities  are  renowned 
for  rapid  growth  and  their  reputation  is  not  discredited  throughout 
this  region. 

Aberdeen,  the  metropolis  of  this  section,  assumes  the  pseu- 
donym, "Chicago  of  the  Northwest,"  and  with  reason,  since  its 
commercial  activity,  the  busy  life  of  its  streets,  its  substantial 
appearance  and  general  physical  robustness  are  salient  features 
of  its  great  prototype. 

At  Mobridge,  ninety-eight  miles  west  of  Aberdeen,  the 
Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  Puget  Sound  Railway  swings  away  westward, 
crossing  the  Missouri  River  on  a  superb  steel  bridge,  one  of  the 
most  noted  structures  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  Three  towering 
spans,  each  425  feet  in  length,  rising  sixty-five  feet  above  the  rails, 
and  four  massive  piers,  that  lift  the  superstructure  fifty-five  feet 
above  the  stream,  distinguish  this  as  the  heaviest  bridge  ever 
thrown  across  the  great  river. 

Mobridge  is  an  incorporated  city,  with  but  few  years  to  its 
credit,  and  its  remarkable  progress  and  prosperous  condition  are 
typical  of  the  new  towns  that  have  grown  up  on  this  line,  scarcely 
■  one  of  which,  with  a  population  above  100,  that  has  not  some  of  the 
"  attributes  of  municipal  advancement;  and  most  of  them  boast  a 
city  water  system,  electric  lighting,  broad,  graded  streets,  concrete 
sidewalks  and  the  best  of  commercial  institutions.  Education  is  of 
paramount  importance  in  these  new  communities  and  every  one  of 
them  is  the  possessor  of  a  commodious  schoolhouse,  and  provides 
educational  facilities  of  the  first  order;  while  in  every  hamlet, 
howsoever  modest,  skyward-pointing  spires  indicate  one  or  more 
edifices  devoted  to  the  religious  welfare  of  the  people. 


'.^^rfSsLlj 


Just  west  of  the  river  is  the  Standing  Rock  Reservation,  the 
home  of  the  famous  fighting  Sioux  Indians.  A  portion  of  this 
reserve  has  recently  been  thrown  open  to  settlement,  but  the 
Indians  still  occupy  the  choicest  sections  toward  the  east.  They 
are,  for  the  most  part,  industrious  and  educated.  At  Wakpala, 
their  principal  town,  there  are  three  denominational  schools,  and 
in  this  place  live  the  only  surviving  descendants  of  Sitting  Bull, 
the  untamed  old  "Medicine  Chief."  The  old  warrior's  last  resting 
place  is  at  Fort  Yates,  the  Standing  Rock  Agency,  north  of  this 
line.  He  died  the  death  of  the  Unconquered,  but  he  lies  now 
beneath  the  long  grasses,  with  "none  so  poor  to  do  him  reverence." 
Rain-in-the-Face,  his  unwavering  ally  and  unfailing  companion  is 
buried  beside  him;  and  fitting  it  is  that  these  two,  united  during 
most  of  their  stormy  lives,  should  not  in  death  be  separated. 
McLaughlin,  the  railway  distributing  point  for  the  Agency,  is  the 
nearest  station  on  this  line  to  the  graves  of  this  notable  pair.  It 
is  claimed  that  Sitting  Bull  was  the  most  famous  Indian  since 
Tecumseh;  that  he  planned  and  gained  the  greatest  victories  ever 
achieved  by  the  red  men  over  his  white  foes.  "  Nor  will  any 
warrior  of  the  future  ever  surpass  Sitting  Bull,  for  the  last  great 
battle  between  the  two  races  has  been  fought." 

That  portion  of  the  reservation  now  open  is  high  rolling  prairie 
land,  watered  by  innumerable  streams  that  flow  over  the  Grand 
River  water-shed.  The  country  is  filling  up  fast  and  rapidly 
swinging  into  the  advancing  line  of  the  great  western  farming 
district.  Nature  has  contributed  everything  to  this  northwestern 
section  of  South   Dakota — a   soil  of   remarkable   productivity,   a 


I 


j 


pr 


^       ikT 


^ 


K>M- 


4        i    v;    . 


plentiful  water  supply,  good  and  cheap  fuel  and  a  delightful 
climate;  and  the  new  railroad,  in  building  up  the  towns  and 
establishing  unsurpassed  service,  is  the  principal  factor  in  bringing 
this  development  to  a  high  degree  of  elRciency.  The  Cheyenne 
River  Indian  Reservation  adjoins  the  Standing  Rock  on  the  south, 
comprising  two  great  plateaus  lying  between  the  Grand,  Moreau 
and  Cheyenne  Rivers.  The  Moreau  River  and  Cheyenne  River 
lines,  sixty  and  one  hundred  miles  respectively,  occupy  this  section, 
connecting  with  the  main  line  at  Moreau  Junction,  immediately 
west  of  the  Missouri  River.  At  McLaughlin  the  Standing  Rock 
line  leads  to  the  north  and  west,  130  miles,  penetrating  the  fertile 
valley  of  the  Cannonball  River,  to  the  rejuvenated  town  of 
New  England,  N.  D.  Ninety-eight  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  River, 
at  Lemmon,  one  of  the  most  substantial  and  enterprising  of  the 
new  towns,  the  railway  enters  southwest  North  Dakota,  running 
thence  for  nearly  100  miles  through  the  same  boundless  reaches 
of  prairie  and  upland,  incomparably  attractive  in  their  brilliant 
display  of  growing  crops  and  golden  sunshine.  In  this  day,  with  so 
much  being  said  of  the  decadence  of  the  farm  and  the  desertion  of 
the  farmer  lads  to  the  cities,  it  is  an  inspiring  commentary  that 
steam  plows,  many  in  number,  can  hardly  break  out  land  fast 
enough  to  meet  the  demands  of  immigration. 

To  the  westward  the  upland  sweep  becomes  more  apparent. 
Here  and  there  a  crested  butte  or  a  rugged  bluff  lifts  itself  above 
the  plains,  Nature's  guide-boards  to  the  distant  mountains.  In 
Adams  County,  through  which  the  railroad  passes,  rich  coal  fields 
underlie  the  entire  district,  providing  an  excellent  quality  of  lignite 


-^x 


I 
I 

i 


coal.  Two  mines  are  already  in  operation  at  the  town  of  Scranton, 
and  preparations  are  being  made  to  open  others.  Climatic  con- 
ditions in  this  locality  are  favorable  to  diversified  farming  on  a 
large  scale;  it  is  within  the  region  of  the  warm  chinook  winds, 
spring  opens  early  and  destructive  winters  are  unknown.  The 
average  rainfall  is  \6}4  inches,  and  the  water  supply  is  pure  and 
abundant. 

Near  Marmarth,  at  the  crossing  of  the  Little  Missouri  River 
and  the  North  Dakota-Montana  State  boundary,  the  line  for  a 
short  distance  skirts  the  "Bad  Lands,"  weird  formations  of  sun- 
baked clay,  which,  from  a  distance,  or  seen  by  the  sunset  light, 
seem  almost  enchanted.  Rising  sheer  from  the  plains,  they  take  on 
shapes  of  battlements,  fortresses,  turrets,  towers, 

"  Temples,  palaces  and  piles  stupendous, 
Of  which  the  very  ruins  are  tremendous." 

Marvelous  color  effects  appear  in  the  layers  of  rock  and  ridges 
of  clay  —  deep  wine  reds,  that  fade  to  faintest  pink;  purples, 
paling  to  lavender;  delicate  greens,  and  tones  and  half  tones  of 
all,  glow  in  the  noon-day  sun  or  melt  into  gorgeous  rose  hues  at 
the  setting. 

If  no  good  came  to  the  Indians  from  out  those  rugged  wastes, 
certainly  the  wonderful  studies  in  tint  and  blend,  in  atmosphere, 
in  color  motif,  in  all  that  delights  the  artist  eye,  gives  to  this  region 
an  interest  all  its  own.  The  Bad  Lands,  moreover,  in  proof  that 
all  things  work  together  for  good,  furnish  excellent  shelter  for  the 
immense  herds  of  cattle  that  range  throughout  this  vicinity. 


I 


In  the  "Bad  Lands" 


I 


Entering  Montana,  in  Custer  County,  the  railway  passes 
through  the  valley  of  O'Fallon's  Creek  to  the  Yellowstone  River, 
a  locality  famous  in  Indian  history.  In  the  melancholy  days  of  the 
Custer  campaigns,  Sioux  and  soldiers  marched  and  countermarched 
in  the  Yellowstone  Valley  from  O'Fallon's  to  the  Rosebud,  and 
sixty  miles  southwest  from  the  mouth  of  the  latter  stream  occurred 
the  tragedy  of  the  Little  Big  Horn.  Custer  County,  in  the  vicinity 
of  O'Fallon  Valley,  and  toward  the  Yellowstone,  is  one  of  the 
garden  spots  of  the  great  eastern  Montana  plateau,  which  in  the 
old  days  was  considered  arid  and  waste,  and  its  riches  comprise  a 
long  list.  Irrigation  and  dry-farming  have  worked  the  change — 
the  valleys  are  green  and  glorious,  and  the  benchlands,  that  sweep 
up  from  the  lower  levels,  produce  immense  crops  of  grain  under 
the  Campbell  system.  The  biennial  yield  in  Custer  County  equals 
and  frequently  exceeds  two  annual  crops  in  other  localities.  On  the 
high  lands  of  this  county,  the  homestead  entries  include  320  acres 
instead  of  the  usual  160. 

Entering  Yellowstone  Valley  the  railway  dips  to  the  southwest, 
passing  through  a  wide  and  fertile  basin,  further  enriched  by  an 
underlay  of  good  lignite  coal.  Cattle  and  sheep  throng  the  hills 
for  many  miles,  and  the  towns  along  the  way  are  all  heavy  stock 
and  wool  shipping  points.  All  this  surrounding  territory  presents 
a  lovely  landscape  picture  of  bottom-lands  dotted  with  groves, 
gently  elevating,  well-grassed  benches,  which  reach  clear  to  the 
foothills,  and  extend  to  Miles  City,  situated  at  the  junction  of  the 
Tongue  with  the  Yellowstone  River,  and  the  metropolis  of  eastern 
Montana.    Miles  is  an  old  town  for  Montana,  having  been  founded 


ti 
I 


I 


y~ 


I 


w 


u- 


I 


mm 


in  1878,  after  the  establishment  of  Fort  Keogh  on  the  Tongue 
River.  The  evolution  of  this  city  from  a  "post  town"  has  carried  it 
through  an  exciting  career  as  a  "cow-town,"  when  the  surrounding 
country  was  all  free  range,  to  its  present  pretension  of  being  the 
greatest  wool-shipping  center  of  eastern  Montana  and  the  largest 
range  horse  market  in  the  world.  Outwardly  it  is  beautiful, 
set  in  a  wealth  of  verdure  and  embellished  with  the  best  that 
money  and  good  taste  can  suggest.  Fort  Keogh  has  been  aban- 
doned as  a  military  post  and  is  now  a  "Cavalry  Remount  Station," 
while  the  fertile  country  surrounding  it  is  under  irrigation  and 
highly  cultivated.  In  following  the  course  of  the  Yellowstone 
down  to  its  conffuence  with  the  Missouri,  Captain  Clarke  of  the 
Lewis  and  Clarke  Expedition,  in  1807,  made  the  following  note: 
"Encamped  on  the  left,  opposite  to  the  entrance  of  a  stream  called 
by  the  Indians  Lazeka  or  Tongue  River.  It  has  a  very  wide  bed 
and  a  channel  of  water  150  yards  wide;  but  the  water  is  a  light 
brown  colour,  very  muddy  and  nearly  milk  warm."  This  warm 
water,  flowing  over  the  soil  from  the  present  irrigating  canals, 
produces  fruit  and  vegetables  of  extraordinary  quality  and  quantity. 
West  of  Miles  City  the  line  crosses  to  the  north  bank  of  the 
Yellowstone,  following  that  river  closely  for  a  number  of  miles. 
Opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Rosebud,  which  empties  into  the 
Yellowstone  from  the  south,  there  now  stands  the  new  town  of 
Cartersville,  near  the  site  of  an  old  American  Fur  Company  fort 
or  trading  post.  During  the  Sitting  Bull  campaigns  all  this  plateau 
waked  to  the  call  of  "Boots  and  Saddles,"  and  waited  in  vain 
for  the  return  of  those  who  marched  away  from  the  Rosebud  to 


the  battlefield  of  the  Little  Big  Horn.  Much  of  Montana,  in  the 
parlance  of  today,  is  "new  country,"  and  yet,  her  plains  and  her 
hills,  her  valleys  and  mountains  are  historic  ground,  and  her  rivers 
are  avenues  of  discovery  in  the  unfolding  of  that  "  immense, 
unbounded  world"  included  in  the  Louisiana  Purchase. 

At  Forsyth  the  rails  again  point  northwestward  into  the  heart 
of  the  great  Montana  sheep  range,  where,  for  miles  in  every  direc- 
tion, as  far  as  eye  can  see,  the  panorama  is  a  moving  sea  of  gray 
woolly  backs  intermingled  with  the  delicate  green  of  the  sage, 
while  on  the  distant  ridge  a  white  speck  indicates  the  herder's 
wagon,  with  perhaps  the  dark  form  of  the  herder  and  his  dogs 
moving  on  the  edge  of  the  flocks.  The  valleys  and  the  range  itself 
are  gradually  slipping  from  control  of  the  stock  men,  and  under 
the  beneficent  influences  of  various  new  irrigation  schemes  are 
becoming  valuable  agricultural  lands.  Throughout  the  range 
country  the  railway  makes  an  imperceptible  but  steady  ascent  of 
the  Home  Creek  Divide,  and  at  the  summit,  in  the  clear  Montana 
atmosphere,  the  far-distant  Snowy  Mountains  may  be  seen  at  the 
northwest.  Descending  thence  to  the  Big  Bend  of  the  Musselshell 
River,  the  line  enters  Fergus  County  and  pursues  its  way  up  the 
valley  of  the  Musselshell  for  many  miles,  through  wide  and  fertile 
bottom-lands,  nearly  all  of  which,  since  the  construction  of  the 
railroad,  have  been  taken  up  and  are  under  cultivation.  The 
Musselshell  is  a  mountain-fed  stream,  which  in  the  summer-time 
flows  softly, 

"With  a  noise  like  the  sound  of  a  hidden  brook 
In  the  leafy  month  of  June," 


iTji    III  ^fi****" 


•5^     ISI 


Two  Tunnels  and  a  Bridge,  Montana  Canyon 


within  its  tree-lined  banks,  that  wind  in  sinuous  length  from  side 
to  side  of  the  valley,  with  broad  fields  and  green  meadows 
beside  its  course.  The  river  received  its  name  from  fossilized 
remains  of  the  mussel-fish  found  in  the  rocks  and  hills  at  the  edge 
of  the  valley. 

The  Musselshell  Valley,  from  Melstone  westward,  and  tributary 
to  this  railroad,  is  an  area  of  extraordinary  beauty  and  fertility. 
The  wide  valley,  watered  by  the  winding  stream  and  rimmed  by 
the  gradually  rising  bench,  is  ideal  for  all  agricultural  pursuits. 
The  climate  is  mild,  with  ample  rainfall,  and  the  soil  is  the  deep 
volcanic  ash  so  universally  found  throughout  Montana.  Extensive 
coal  deposits  are  present  here,  and  at  Roundup  four  large  mines 
are  in  active  operation.  Roundup  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  the 
new  West;  the  first  spade  was  struck  for  its  foundation  in  1908, 
and  its  population  in  1911  is  3,000.  Its  designation,  the  "Miracle 
of  the  Musselshell,"  is  befitting  its  rapid  development,  and,  withal, 
its  remarkably  attractive  features.  It  is  eminently  a  modern  city, 
having  every  comfort  and  convenience  to  be  found  in  towns  many 
times  its  size  and  age,  while  its  beautiful  situation,  on  the  hills 
which  slope  gently  to  the  deeply  wooded  river  banks,  make  it  a 
delightful  and  a  healthful  place.  The  surrounding  country  and  the 
numerous  coal  mines  give  it  rank  as  a  commercial  center  of  the  first 
importance,  insuring  also  its  permanent  progress.  The  old  stage 
road,  which  was  originally  a  bufi"alo  trail  leading  from  the  grazing 
pastures  at  the  south  to  the  Missouri  River,  far  north,  crosses  the 
railroad  near  here,  and  the  old  stage  station  that  first  bore  the 
name  of  Roundup  still  stands  under  the  alders  on  the  river  banks. 


s 

^!i. 


A  2a 


Q  '.;• 


? 


:^j-^: 


While  the  overland  trains  thunder  by,  the  old  Concord  coach 
stands  in  the  deserted  sheds,  dismantled  and  dust-covered,  and 
the  moldering  bones  of  the  buffalo  lie  half-buried  by  the  roadside, 
each  a  crumbling  relic  of  days  that  are  past. 

Toward  the  western  border  of  Fergus  County  the  mountains 
loom  in  the  distance,  gradually  rising  in  all  their  majesty  across 
the  western  horizon.  Snowy  peaks  and  snow-clad  slopes  move 
slowly  into  view,  at  once  overtopped  by  more  majestic  heights, 
which  steal  gracefully  into  the  perspective,  the  great  picture,  a 
changeful  panorama,  as  the  railroad,  pushing  on,  brings  them  into 
closer  range.  Broadview,  a  large  experimental  farm  located  south 
of  the  railroad  in  this  vicinity,  has  demonstrated  by  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  its  production  the  adaptability  of  the  soil  to  any 
desired  crops  and  the  remarkable  success  of  the  dry-farming  system 
on  semi-arid  land.  At  Harlowton  the  mountains  come  suddenly 
forward  in  full,  impressive  splendor.  At  the  southwest  are  the 
snow-ribbed  Crazy  Range,  the  Big  Belts  rise  at  the  west,  swinging 
into  the  Big  Snowys  toward  the  north  and  settling  into  the  Judith 
hills  at  the  northeast. 

The  Lewistown  line,  leaving  the  main  line  at  Harlowton, 
begins  an  immediate  ascent  northeastward  toward  the  Judith 
Basin,  which  lies  within  walls  of  lofty  mountain  ranges,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  richest  agricultural  regions  in  the  whole  world. 
A  marked  depression  in  the  mountains  is  the  Judith  Gap,  where 
the  railway  gains  entrance  to  the  magnificent  amphitheatre  that 
contains  over  2,000  square  miles,  sweeping  in  galleries  of  bench- 
land    down   to   the   broad   expanse   of   level   valley.      Numberless 

•^^^^-^    '^ 


V 


i 


/■'« 


streams  carry  their  waters  through  field  and  meadow,  joining  the 
swift  Httle  Judith  River,  which  flows  into  the  Missouri,  sixty-five 
miles  away.  Many  prosperous  little  towns  dot  the  great  basin, 
which  is  practically  one  immense  grain  field,  while  in  the  far-away, 
hazy  hills  and  the  nearer,  darkly  wooded  ridges  are  enormous  stores 
of  mineral  wealth.  On  a  steady  decline,  in  long  loops  and  curves, 
the  road  negotiates  the  descent,  and  with  a  final  all-embracing 
"horse-shoe,"  that  fairly  encircles  the  city,  the  rails  come  to  an 
end  in  beautiful  Lewistown,  the  commercial  center  of  the  Basin. 
Lewistown  is  a  charming  city  of  5,000,  and,  like  all  progressive 
western  municipalities,  it  is  provided  with  the  best  of  everything 
that  makes  for  the  joy  of  living  and  for  business  prosperity.  The 
locality  recommends  itself  as  a  place  of  residence  by  reason 
of  its  equable  climate,  its  exceptional  educational  opportunities 
and  social  advantages.  It  has  a  very  large  mercantile  trade, 
furnishing  supplies  for  the  mining  industries  located  in  the 
surrounding  mountains,  and  the  great  farming  country  that  is 
naturally  tributary  to  Lewistown. 

The  scenic  beauties  of  the  region  are  many,  combining  peaceful 
rural  vistas,  towering  heights,  sparkling  streams  that  dance  gleefully 
between  deep,  green  overhanging  banks,  and  magnificent  distances 
that  melt  into  mystic,  hazy,  cloud-hung  mountain  ranges.  In  the 
near-by  mountains  are  innumerable  interesting  resorts  for  fishing 
and  hunting,  notably  the  Lake  of  the  Snowys,  reached  by  wagon 
or  automobile,  where  the  fishing  and  hunting  equal  the  most 
famous  haunts  in  the  West. 

In  the  Moccasin  Mountains  are  the  cyanide  gold  mines,  that 
brought  this  region  into  prominence  many  years  ago,  the  famous 
Kendall  mine,  still  in  operation,  being  within  a  two  hours'  drive 
of  Lewistown,  with  a  daily  stage  between  the  two  places,  and  a 
branch  of  the  railroad  projected  thither  in  the  near  future.  The 
Yogo  sapphire  mines,  unique  in  this  country,  are  in  the  Big 
Snowy  Mountains,  where  the  towering,  snow  crown  of  Yogo  Baldy 
Mountain  glitters  in  the  bright  light,  forty  miles  away. 

The  mountain  drives  throughout  this  region  are  beautiful,  with 
a  wild  picturesqueness  that  combines  heavy  climbing,  down-hill 
dashes,  wide,  parklike  reaches  and  narrow,  walled-in  canyons, 
where  wheel  and  stream  contest  the  right-of-way. 

The  Judith  Basin  is  the  home  of  legend  and  the  scene  of 
stirring  historical  events.  In  this  place  the  Indian  tribes  fore- 
gathered, the  Sioux,  Crows,  Blackfeet  and  Flatheads,  to  hold  their 
powwows,  their  war  dances  and  their  calumets;  on  Black  Butte,  a 
grim  headland  north  of  the  valley,  warning  fires  blazed  forth,  and 
council  beacons  smouldered.  It  is  related  that  the  pious  Father 
de  Smet,  the  fearless  Jesuit  of  the  far  western  mountains,  attended 
a  great  peace  council  of  the  tribes  in  the  Judith  Basin  in  1844. 
The  basin  itself  takes  its  name  from  the  little  river  which  carries 
the  waters  of  many  creeks  to  the  great  river  of  the  north,  and  it 


\-  Xli' 


'-^ 


A    — • 


received  its  christening  from  a  member  of  the  Lewis  and  Clarke 
Expedition,  in  honor  of  a  fair-faced  Virginian  "Miss  Judy,"  whose 
haunting  beauty  was  a  pleasant  picture  in  his  memory.  There 
were  cowboy  days  in  this  valley,  too,  and  their  exploits  become 
picturesque  as  time  lends  the  distance  of  enchantment.  This 
gentry  were  always  the  self-appointed  exterminators  of  hostile 
red-skins,  and  a  letter  preserved  in  the  annals  of  the  Judith  Coun- 
try is  written  by  Cowboy  "Froggy"  to  "Bill,"  his  partner,  who 
has  been  called  from  home.  It  is  essentially  illustrative,  and  a 
model  news-conveyancer.     It  reads: 

"Dear  Bill:  — 

A  feller 's  passin'  by,  and  I  got  a  chanst  to  send  you  a  letter. 
Everythin's  been  goin'  fine  since  you  left.  There  was  a  Indian  here 
yesterday.  He  was  a  chief.  I  shot  him.  He  's  dead.  Potatoes  lookin' 
fine.     Expect  to  make  some  more  whisky  tomorrow. 

Yours,  Froggy." 

The  main  line  of  the  Puget  Sound  Railway  extends  west  from 
Harlowton,  up  the  Musselshell  water  course,  through  the  remnant 
of  Montana's  once  all-pervading  grazing  empire.  The  ascent  into 
the  mountain  country  begins  at  Harlowton,  and  as  the  valley 
gradually  recedes  the  slopes  become  more  marked;  the  mountains 
"clad  like  Bedouins  in  fleecy  white"  march  out  in  long  file  on 
every  side  and  swing  into  line  grandly;  the  softly  beautiful  Crazy 
peaks  and  the  ragged  Bridger  Range  lift  their  snowy  sides  on 
the  southwest;  the  embattlemented  Castle  Hills  rise  sheer  and 
frowning  on  the  north,  and  the  long  line  of  the  Big  Belts  loom 


s 


,,,__;^— -;7|~.v_~^«rtijj 


$ 


3*fi^-^>^C 


;). 


darkly  across  the  western  sky.  Toward  the  summit  of  the  Castle 
Hills  Pass,  the  whole  mighty  battalion  is  in  full  review,  massed  in 
front  and  flank  and  closing  the  retreat.  Immediately  west  of  the 
summit,  extending  northward,  is  the  valley  of  Smith  River,  one  of 
Montana's  many  wide  and  fertile  agricultural  parks  lying  within, 
and  protected  by  lofty  mountain  barriers.  Eighteen  miles  north  of 
the  station  of  Ringling,  and  in  the  heart  of  the  Smith  River  Valley, 
is  White  Sulphur  Springs,  the  county  seat  of  Meagher  County,  a 
town  approaching  its  thirtieth  year,  the  possessor  of  a  group  of  hot 
sulphur  springs  that  rival  the  world's  famous  spas.  The  town  is 
equipped  with  all  the  modern  luxuries  and  surrounded  by  scenic 
wonders  of  great  attraction,  yet  the  remarkable  thing  is  that 
this  little  city  has  never  until  the  present  heard  the  sound  of  a 
locomotive  whistle,  but  the  completion  of  the  White  Sulphur 
Springs  &  Yellowstone  Park  Railway  brings  the  steel  trail  into  this 
Paradise.  A  magnificent  new  hotel,  to  be  erected,  will  complete 
the  rejuvenation  of  White  Sulphur  Springs  and  create  a  resort 
which  will  have  no  superior  in  the  world. 

The  Smith  River  Valley  is  one  of  the  choicest  agricultural 
districts  in  the  State,  where  irrigation  and  dry-farming  succeed 
equally  well  in  producing  some  of  the  largest  of  the  Montana 
crops.  The  scenic  beauty  of  this  valley  is  rarely  lovely — a  wide 
and  level  basin  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains,  with  peaks  of 
eternal  snow  maintaining  guard  above  the  crest  line.  On  the 
west  are  the  Big  Belts  and  at  the  east  the  palisades,  pulpits  and 
turrets  of  the  Castle  Hills,  while  far  away,  in  the  south,  the 
Bridger  Mountains  look  over  the  intervening  uplands. 


\f 


m- 


V 


' '  .'f 


^^?' 

'^<i 


>' 


.''^. 


#> 


-1.      2'*' 


'A 
■'i 


¥-■■ 


■■~j 


:^^-' 


Gradually  descending,  the  railway  follows  a  sparkling  stream 
toward  a  gap  in  the  mountains  which  leads  into  the  wild  and 
surpassingly  beautiful  Montana  Canyon.  The  rollicking  brook  is 
the  famous  Sixteen  Mile  Creek,  one  of  the  most  noted  trout-fishing 
strearris  in  the  State.  Its  cold,  clear,  leaping  waters  and  its  deep, 
quiet  pools  are  fairly  alive  with  mountain  trout.  It  requires  no 
imagination  to  properly  produce  a  fish  story  after  a  day  in  this 
canyon  and  the  full  creel  proves,  at  sight,  that  in  Sixteen  Mile 
Creek  truth  is  something  more  than  fiction. 

Winding  into  the  narrow  gorge,  the  towering,  densely  wooded 
eminence  that  seems  to  bar  the  way  is  Wall  Mountain,  pierced 
by  a  tunnel,  which  may  properly  be  called  the  eastern  gateway 
of  the  Montana  Canyon.  This  canyon,  which  early  acquired  fame 
as  "The  Sixteen  Mile,"  offers  one  of  the  most  exquisitely  beautiful 
scenic  pictures  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  regions,  embracing  within 
its  narrow  barriers  and  short  distance  all  the  majestic  features  of 
mountain  scenery,  done  in  wonder-worked  detail.  Crags  and 
pinnacles,  intermingled  with  jagged  ridges,  thrust  boldly  from  out 
the  steep  slopes;  beetling  heights  and  fearsome  depths  are  grouped 
in  magnificent  confusion.  The  gorge,  which  Nature  opened  only 
for  the  impetuous  stream,  carries  on  its  precipitous  walls  a  railway 
that  is  a  marvel  of  scientific  calculation,  demonstrating  the  most 
advanced  ideas  in  railroad  construction — deep  cuts,  heavy  embank- 
ments, bridges  that  seem  hung  in  the  air,  span  deep  ravines,  and 
tunnels  intervene  when  heights  become  prohibitive.  So  sharply 
do  the  canyon  walls  advance  and  as  quickly  retreat,  that  vistas  '^ 
which  seem  to  open  in  the  distance  are  suddenly  crowded  back  ^ 


V 


u 


H 


■■> 


—. ...-^ 


■%i'>' 


where  a  massive  promontory  leaps  out  to  close  the  perspective. 
Curving  gently,  the  rails  steadily  negotiate  a  direct  course,  while 
the  old  Montana  Railroad,  the  predecessor  of  this  line  through  the 
Big  Belt  Mountains,  and  the  early  pathfinder  in  this  canyon, 
followed  closely  the  bank  of  the  stream,  far  below.  Traces  of  the  old 
railroad  grade  are  yet  standing,  following  a  wayward  trail,  careless 
alike  of "  angles,  curves  or  sinuosities."  Over  all  the  rugged  grandeur 
of  this  narrow  chasm  a  matchless  color  display  is  emblazoned 
on  the  granite  walls.  Creamy  whites  blend  with  softest  rose  and 
palest  lavender  and  brilliant  reds  mingle  with  the  green  and  gray 
and  blue,  and  all  is  softened  and  shadowed  by  every  shade  of 
green  from  the  dense  darkness  of  the  looming  forests  to  the  silvery 
sheen  of  the  birches  overhanging  the  brink  of  the  precipices,  and 
nodding  to  the  deep  blue  waters  lashing  to  foamy  white  in  the 
depths  of  the  chasm.  This  canyon,  in  old  Indian  days,  was  a 
hiding  place  for  the  hostiles.  Ambush  and  sortie  were  practiced 
to  perfection  in  this  mountain  fastness,  and  a  number  of  hidden 
caverns  have  been  discovered  containing  heaps  of  moidering  bones, 
as  if  the  redmen  had  plunged  into  these  retreats,  but  found  no 
sanctuary  at  the  last. 

About  midway  the  canyon  widens,  opening  for  a  number  of 
miles  into  a  broad  and  smiling  valley,  whose  meadows  are  rich 
with  growing  grain.  The  dark  wall  of  Big  Blackfoot  Mountain 
looms  on  the  west  of  these  meadows  and  the  snow-covered  crown 
of  Ross  Peak  towers  above  it.  As  the  canyon  walls  come  sharply 
in  again,  the  grandeur  increases,  with  the  gorgeous  coloring  more 
vivid  and  splendid  than  before.  Gradually  descending,  the  rails 
issue  from  the  deep  gorge  at  the  Missouri  River  and  cross  that 
stream  623  miles  west  of  Mobridge,  or  1,000  miles  as  the  river 
flows.    The  beauty  of  this  spot  is  wild  and  impressive. 

The  cliffs  tower  to  great  heights  and  their  ragged  ledges  are  as 
if  they  had  been  decorated  from  "paint  pots"  which  Madame 
Nature  might  have  taken  out  of  her  stores  over  in  Yellowstone  Park, 
not  sixty  miles  away,  so  gorgeous  and  yet  so  soft  are  the  hues  that 
shine  through  the  lacy  green  of  the  trees  and  offer  their  contrast 
to  the  nodding  flowers  which  look  out  from  between  crags  and 
shelving  rocks.  The  bridge  at  Lombard  is  the  first  one  across 
the  Missouri  River  below  its  headwaters,  and,  westward,  the  line 
lies  close  to  the  waterside  where  the  river  breaks  through  lofty 
granite  walls  and  glittering,  white  limestone  cliffs.  These  cliffs 
are  the  finest  lime  of  commerce  and  will  become  a  source  of 
great  wealth  to  this  locality.  The  country  is  wild  and  moun- 
tainous, alternating  with  smiling  valleys,  through  which  the 
bright  river  flows. 

On  the  right,  well  up  to  the  headwaters,  are  high  headlands 
recorded  by  Lewis  and  Clarke  as  being  those  ascended  by  their 
party,  and  from  which  they  first  beheld  the  long-expected  Three 
Forks,  the  historic  place  of  the  waters'  meet,  where  three  swiftly 


'.V-C-- 


Vj 


.% 


-'^^ 


i 


M 


I 


Near  the  Headwaters  of  the  Missouri 


I 


> 

--*« 


/' 


flowing  streams  sweep  in  from  east,  from  south  and  from  west, 
and,  coming  together,  form  Missouri's  mighty  flood.  The  Three 
Forks  Plain  is  the  country  of  Lewis  and  Clarke.  The  atmosphere 
is  heavy  with  historic  association  and  romantic  legend.  To  reach 
this  place  the  fearless  explorers  had  bent  all  their  energies,  breasting 
the  switt  current,  portaging  where  rapids  and  falls  obstructed  the 
river  way,  and  patiently  threading  the  dark,  silent  mountain  gorges 
where  the  waters  raced  madly,  or  sullenly  opposed  the  invaders 
of  their  ancient  domain.  Guided  by  the  unerring  intuition  of 
Sacajawea,  the  Indian  woman  who*  had  told  them  of  the  meeting  of 
three  great  rivers,  they  at  length  rested  on  that  "level,  handsome 
plain,  surrounded  on  every  side  with  distant  and  lofty  mountains" 
where  her  tribesmen  had  been  accustomed  to  hunt  the  buffalo  in 
the  days  of  her  childhood. 

Railroads  now  edge  this  plain  and  a  thriving  city  has  grown  up 
in  its  midst.  The  city  of  Three  Forks  is,  in  a  way,  "an  infant 
prodigy."  Less  than  two  years  old,  it  has  become  a  metropolitan 
center,  a  division  point  of  this  railway  and  a  junction  with  the 
new  Gallatin  Valley  Railway.  Thus  the  rich  tributary  country 
which  has  already  so  mightily  stimulated  the  growth  of  a  town 
on  the  Three  Forks  Plain,  will  continue  to  pour  its  wealth  into 
this  center,  adding  year  by  year  to  the  substantial  character  of 
this  place. 

The  rivers  which  come  together  here  were  named  by  the 
Government  Expedition;  the  one  coming  from  the  southeast  was 
called  the  Gallatin,  in  honor  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury;  that 
from  the  south  was  named  for  James  Madison,  the  Secretary  of 


i| 


l 


I ,       »».>    .\    \ 


y^    '  -' 


^[■■'^^^ 


\ 


State,  and  the  southwestern  branch  perpetuated  the  name  of 
Thomas  Jefferson,  the  President  of  the  United  States.  The  last 
stream  bore  a  closer  resemblance  in  most  of  its  features  to  the  great 
river  itself,  and  it  was  this  stream  which  the  navigators  finally 
chose  for  their  route  beyond  the  mountains  to  the  Columbia  and 
the  North  Pacific  Ocean.  The  valley  of  the  Jefferson  is  also  the 
chosen  route  for  this  railway,  which,  after  crossing  a  noted  fishing 
stream  called  Willow  Creek  (but  which  according  to  the  Lewis  and 
Clarke  records  was  christened  Philosophy  River),  passes  through  a 
fine  open  valley  stretching  away  to  the  base  of  the  snow-topped 
Tobacco  Root  Range  on  the  south,  and  to  the  foot  of  the 
Continental  Divide  at  the  west  and  north.  On  the  approach  to 
the  mountains  the  line  swings  in  long  and  easy  curvature  into 
the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Jefferson  River,  the  rapid  current  flowing 
closely  for  many  miles. 

The  grade  follows  the  contour  of  the  canyon  walls,  which  press 
forward  in  majestic,  deeply  cut  ridges  clear  to  the  river  brink.  In 
this  canyon,  too,  color  and  light  run  riot — dark  red  sandstone  cliff's 
alternate  with  purest  white  limestone  walls  that  stand  forth  in 
dazzling  contrast  to  the  wealth  of  deep  forest  green  that  clothes 
the  hillsides.  West  of  the  canyon  the  valley  widens  and  broad 
acres  of  fertile  bottoms  lie  along  the  river.  On  the  southern  horizon 
the  Tobacco  Root  Mountains  suddenly  advance  their  snowy 
peaks,  receding  as  the  line  swings  away  from  the  river  across  the 
rolling  foothills  toward  the  Continental  Divide,  the  backbone  of 
the  real  Rocky  Mountains.  At  Piedmont  the  mountain  grade 
begins  and  the  line  shoots  away  directly  toward  the  foothills,  rising 


^;a' 


■^ *-'--».j. 


'#3-.  ■ 


gradually  above  the  wondrously  lovely  Pipestone  Valley,  that  is 
like  a  mighty  park,  with  broad  avenues  and  bright  water-courses 
sparkling  through  it.  In  this  valley  is  a  collection  of  curative 
springs  of  widespread  fame  for  their  beneficial  effects  in  the  treat- 
ment of  rheumatic  and  stomach  troubles.  From  this  ascent,  on 
clear  days,  off  to  the  south  imagination  may  draw  the  outline  of 
"The  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain"  lying  at  ease  on  the  ridge  of  the 
tallest  of  the  Tobacco  Root  peaks.  From  the  base  of  the  Rockies  a 
long  series  of  easy  curves,  steadily  lifting,  carry  the  rails  into  the 
heart  of  a  stern  splendor,  typical  of  the  Great  Divide.  From  the 
heights,  the  magnificent  panorama  of  valley,  hill  and  towering 
mountains  is  an  inspiring  picture.  Entering  Fish  Creek  Canyon 
the  railway  passes  through  deep  cuts  hewn  from  the  solid  rock, 
emerging  thence  to  fleeting  views  of  the  dark  canyon  bed  —  a 
vanishing  picture  of  cloud-capped  summits  and  glimpses  of  gloomy 
chasms  and  rock-riven  gorges,  where  the  foaming  waters  leap, 
scattering  veils  of  mist,  and  smiling  through  rainbow  colors  at  the 
sunshine  which  glances  but  hastily  into  these  depths.  On  a  steady 
rise  the  Divide  is  reached  and  the  western  slope  is  gained  through 
Pipestone  Pass  tunnel,  at  an  elevation  of  6,350  feet  above  sea-level, 
the  highest  point  on  this  railway.  This  tunnel,  though  nearly  one- 
half  mile  in  length,  is  as  straight  as  an  arrow,  and  looking  from 
either  entrance,  the  far-away  exit  is  to  be  seen,  a  tiny  spot  of  light 
out  of  the  darkness.  The  waters  of  the  mountains  divide  on  this 
rugged  crest  line,  those  flowing  to  the  east  finding  their  way  through 
Missouri  water  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  those  on  the  western 
slope  seek  the  North  Pacific  by  Columbia's  devious  course. 


■^ 


P 


V, 


I 


From  the  Continental  Divide  to  Butte,  the  line  slips  easily 
along  the  mountain-side,  with  Silver  Bow  valley  spread  in  mag- 
nificent perspective,  below,  while  the  towers  and  stacks  of  the 
world-famous  Butte  mines  rise  on  the  skyline,  with  the  city's 
crescent  outline  in  the  foreground.  Swinging  completely  around  the 
picturesque  valley,  the  railway  enters  Butte,  the  most  remarkable 
city  in  the  world.  The  largest  city  in  Montana,  it  numbers  60,000 
people,  and  is  thoroughly  progressive  and  eminently  modern.  Its 
buildings,  its  merchandise  stocks,  its  crowded  thoroughfares  and  its 
population  are  reproductions  of  the  eastern  idea,  with  enough  of  the 
breezy  western  impetus  to  place  it  far  above  any  city  of  the  same 
size  in  the  East.  It,  of  course,  owes  its  existence  to  the  wonderful 
copper  hill  upon  which  it  is  built.  Its  copper  mines  penetrate  the 
mountain  in  every  direction,  the  galleries  extending  far  under  the 
city  streets.  Before  the  improved  methods  for  reducing  ores,  Butte 
was  the  blackness  of  desolation,  owing  to  the  sulphur  fumes  which 
pervaded  the  atmosphere  and  killed  all  vegetation,  but  since  the 
erection  of  the  immense  smelter  stacks  at  Anaconda  and  Great 
Falls  the  fumes  are  dissipated  far  above  the  hills  and  away  from 
the  town,  so  that  the  verdure  has  returned,  flowers  and  grass 
thrive  and  trees  and  birds  are  reappearing.  Butte,  the  unique,  is 
becoming  a  city  beautiful. 

West  from  Butte,  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  Puget  Sound 
Railway  runs  through  the  lovely  Silver  Bow  Canyon,  where  the 
rugged,  rock-bound  walls  are  pictures  painted  in  the  most  delicate 
and  brilliant  colorings.  Strange  formations  out-thrust  from  the 
sheer    mountain  sides    are   decorated   in   fantastic    color    schemes, 


\ 


I 


P 


u 


-^ 


/■t^Jf- 


and  deep  ravines  blend  their  dark  shadows  with  the  blazonry  on 
granite  and  sandstone.  Toward  the  west  the  canyon  widens  into 
Deer  Lodge  Valley,  a  wide  sweep  of  fertile  agricultural  country, 
surrounded  by  huge  mountains  and  watered  by  many  sparkling 
mountain  streams.  South  of  Deer  Lodge  Valley  are  the  noted 
Beaver  Head  and  Big  Hole  regions  of  Montana,  with  the  city  of 
Anaconda,  their  metropolis.  Anaconda,  like  Butte,  is  a  product  of 
Marcus  Daly's  discoveries,  and  the  city  grew  out  of  the  establish- 
ment there  of  the  Washoe  smelter,  the  largest  reduction  works  in 
the  world.  It  is  a  model  city  and  a  delightful  place.  It  boasts 
the  finest  hotel  in  the  State,  standing  exactly  one  mile  above 
the  sea-level.  It  is  the  county  seat,  has  a  fine  school  system, 
a  splendid  memorial  library,  substantial  business  blocks  and 
sumptuous   homes. 

At  the  farther  end  of  the  valley  is  the  city  of  Deer  Lodge,  one 
of  the  oldest  and  most  attractive  towns  in  Montana.     It  is  a  place 
of  much  wealth;    its  wide  streets  are  lined  with  over-arching  trees^ 
and  its  palatial  homes  are  owned  by  many  of  Montana's  pioneers. 
There   are    many  large   institutions,   public   and    private,   located 
here,    among    which    is    the    State    Penitentiary.      Many    of    the 
earliest   gold   mines   of   this   section  of  Montana  were    on    Silver 
Bow  Creek  and  Deer  Lodge  River,  between  Anaconda  and  Deer  • 
Lodge,  and  the  oldest  stamp  mill  is  still    standing    at    the    littleij 
town  of  Silver  Bow. 

West  of  Deer  Lodge  the  line  traverses  a  broad  plain  of  rich, 
alluvial    soil,    cultivated    clear    to    the    base    of    the    mountains.' 
Immense  hay  fields  stretch  its  entire  length,  with  Deer  Lodge  River 


,4 


contributing  to  their  fertility.  The  transverse  valleys  throughout 
this  section  are  singularly  well  adapted  to  grazing  and  dairy 
industries.  As  the  valley  narrows  into  Hell  Gate  Canyon,  there 
is  a  certain  romantic  interest  gathered  here,  by  reason  of  it 
being  the  scene  of  the  first  gold  excitement  in  Montana.  Gold 
Creek,  flowing  into  the  Deer  Lodge,  brought  in  golden  sands 
from  the  hills  at  the  south,  and  in  1850,  near  its  confluence 
with  the  larger  stream,  Francois  Benetsee,  a  half-breed  prospector 
and  trapper,  first  discovered  the  yellow  particles  and  panned  a 
fortune  there. 

It  was  Montana's  first  call  of  the  gold  and  the  stampede  began 
then  and  there,  which  resulted  in  Pioneer,  in  Virginia  City  and  in 
the  lawless  days  of  the  territory.  Hell  Gate  Canyon  became  a  wild 
and  terrifying  district,  and  the  road  agent  was  master,  until  his 
standing  in  society  was  finally  and  definitely  fixed  by  the  vigilantes, 
who  cleared  Montana's  escutcheon  and  opened  the  way  for  a  law- 
respecting  citizenship.  There  is  still  some  placer  mining  near 
Pioneer,  but  the  richest  veins  have  long  since  "pinched  out,"  and 
whatever  hidden  treasure  there  now  is,  remains  locked  in  unknown 
rifts  in  the  rock-ribbed  giants  which  enclose  the  valley,  awaiting 
some  fortune  hunter  of  the  future. 

Hell  Gate  Canyon  is  also  linked  with  many  other  thrilling 
events  in  Montana's  history.  As  early  as  1840  the  Jesuit  mission- 
aries, whom  the  Indians  named  "The  Black- Robes"  followed  this 
trail  into  the  Bitter  Root  Valley,  where  they  established,  at 
St.  Mary's,  the  first  Christian  church  in  the  territory.  Fearless  and 
careless  of  personal  danger,  the  zealous  Fathers  sought  the  Indians 


V 

r 


f 

t 


I 


f 


V    ^-  - 


i  •< 


■';'::^: 


% 


yn 


/■ 


. .,  /' 


4*^.. 


and  taught  them  the  gentle  arts  of  peace.  They  introduced 
intensive  farming  in  the  West  and  brought  seeds  into  Montana 
from  the  Columbia  River  country,  where  their  thrift  had  already 
made  the  desert  bloom. 

The  railroad  follows  the  old  trail  through  the  canyon,  and 
as  its  western  portal  opens,  a  great  mountain  panorama  is  unrolled, 
with  the  city  of  Missoula  in  the  foreground.  Just  as  the  valley 
widens,  the  Big  Blackfoot  River  comes  in  from  the  north  and 
joining  the  Hell  Gate,  the  stream  then  becomes  the  Missoula. 
Missoula  is  the  French  trapper's  shortening  of  the  old  Indian 
Missouleti-cou,  meaning  "at  the  waters  of  ambush,"  and  just 
where  the  river  emerges  from  the  mountains  are  three  tall  peaks 
on  one  side  and  a  curious  elephant-shaped  hill  nearly  closing  the 
gap  on  the  opposite,  making  ideal  ambuscade.  From  Sentinel 
Peaks  went  forth  the  signals  which  brought  the  Indians  to  the  shadow 
of  Jumbo  Butte,  to  lie  in  ambush  for  the  enemy.  Missoula  is  well 
named  "The  Garden  City."  Its  shaded  avenues,  its  gorgeous 
floral  display  and  the  luxurious  lawns  which  surround  the  homes 
of  rich  and  poor  alike,  present  a  perfect  garden  picture.  It  has 
large  and  complete  commercial  facilities,  giving  it  first  rank  in 
the  business  world.  Every  comfort  and  convenience  of  modern 
life  is  afforded — fine  schools,  elegant  churches,  several  libraries 
for  the  use  of  the  public,  one  of  the  largest  mercantile  establish- 
ments in  Montana,  many  manufacturing  plants  and  unlimited 
opportunities  for  every  branch  of  trade.  The  State  University 
is  located  at  Missoula  and  there  is  also  a  large  Catholic  seminary 
here.     The  river  furnishes   inexhaustible  water  power  for  the  city 


'««     I      V. 


■M 


use.  The  tributary  country  is  enormous  and  adapted  to  any 
branch  of  agricultural  pursuits.  Intensive  farming  is  ideal;  fruit 
matures  perfectly  and  is  free  from  pest  of  any  kind.  Missoula 
is  the  metropolis  of  the  famous  Bitter  Root  Valley  and  the  home 
of  the  Mcintosh  red  apple.  The  Bitter  Root  River  joins  the 
Missoula  within  the  city  limits;  lofty  mountains  look  down  on 
every  side;  the  Continental  Divide  bars  the  eastern  horizon;  the 
dark  green  ridges  of  the  Bitter  Root  Range  are  at  the  south  and 
west,  and  the  vague,  icy  summits  of  the  Mission  Mountains 
loom  in  the  north. 

This  is  historic  ground  connected  with  every  period  of  western 
Montana  growth.  Here  again  the  railway  crosses  the  route  of 
the  Lewis  and  Clarke  expedition,  which  passed  through  the 
Bitter  Root  Valley  and  over  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains;  and 
west  of  the  city  they  gave  the  Missoula  River  the  name  of 
Clarke's  Fork  of  the  Columbia.  On  the  river  banks  and  in  the 
foothills  live  many  of  the  descendants  of  the  French  explorers 
who  followed  Father  de  Smet  into  the  wilderness  and  founded 
their  homes  in  the  shelter  of  the  protecting  heights.  Notable, 
also,  in  the  annals  of  the  warfare  between  white  men  and  Indians 
is  the  retreat  of  Chief  Joseph  and  his  warriors  who,  stealing  away 
across  Nez  Perces  Pass,  avoided  the  trap  laid  for  them  at  Hell 
Gate  and  escaped  on  a  hidden  trail  into  the  Big  Hole  country 
to  the  south,  whence  they  continued  their  flight  down  the  Jefferson 
Valley,  through  the  Musselshell  country  and,  rounding  the  hills  at 
the  Big  Bend  of  the  Musselshell  River,  eluded  their  pursuers  and 
sought  sanctuary  beyond  the  Missouri. 


\, 


>^    V,. 


i 


I 


In  the  Heart  of  the 


k 


* 


"Across  the  Continent" — Map  of  the  Chicago,  If 


r  Root  Mountains 


akee  &  Puget  Sound  Railway  and  Connections 


i 


For  many  miles  west  of  Missoula  the  railway  leads  through 
Grass  Valley,  among  the  richest  of  Montana  hay  lands,  skirting 
the  foothills  and  crossing  the  Alissoula  River  several  times  on  its 
way  toward  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains.  The  Alissoula  Valley 
and  the  adjacent  hills  are  beautiful  to  look  at  and  good  to  live  in. 
The  snow  peak  at  the  south — and  seen  at  every  turn  towering 
above  its  companions  —  is  Mount  LoLo.  In  this  valley  the 
universal  spirit  of  progress  is  apparent;  the  meadows  and  uplands 
produce  any  crop  desired  and  everything  desirable.  Hay,  grain 
and  alfalfa  have  been  the  principal  yield  until  recent  experimental 
work  in  intensive  farming  has  demonstrated  that  the  soil  and 
climate  are  especially  favorable  to  fruit  and  garden  stuff.  In  the 
transverse  valleys  where  land  is  being  cleared,  dairy  farming  is 
ideal.  Following  down  the  Missoula,  which  frequently  is  lost 
between  deep,  rock-riven  walls,  where  the  waters  dash  in  mad 
confusion  against  hidden  reefs — at  St.  Regis  the  rails  swing  into 
St.  Regis  Canyon  and  point  directly  toward  the  dark  ever-green 
mountains  that  rear  their  lofty  heights  on  Montana's  western 
boundary.  The  Bitter  Root  Range  is  one  of  the  grandest  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  group.  Rising  steeply  from  the  valley,  their 
slopes  are  covered  with  an  almost  unbroken  growth  of  timber, 
presenting  an  imposing  spectacle  of  row  upon  row,  tier  upon  tier, 
of  brilliant  green,  that  extends  from  the  deep  valley  to  the  very 
tip  of  the  tallest  peak.  The  railway  makes  a  gradual  ascent  of 
this  range,  the  line  swinging  from  hill  to  hill,  curving  gracefully 
and  pushing  steadily  upward.  In  a  deep  and  beautiful  ravine, 
where  Dominion  Creek  leaps  down  to  join  the  river,  a  narrow  loop 


■^ 


•^r . 


../•■*" 


i 


brings  the  rails  closely  together,  but  on  opposing  walls  and  differing 
elevations.  For  eleven  miles  the  line  rises  continuously  until  the 
hamlets  in  the  St.  Regis  Valley  seem  only  vanishing  views  in  a 
moving-picture  panorama. 

St.  Paul  Pass,  an  elevation  of  4,170  feet,  terminates  the  ascent 
and  the  rails  pierce  the  rugged  mountain,  1,000  feet  below  its 
summit.  The  tunnel  here  is  one  of  the  notable  engineering  feats 
of  the  Bitter  Root  construction,  and  is  but  little  less  than  two  miles 
long.  Within  the  deep  passage  the  rails  cross  the  Montana-Idaho 
State  line,  and  emerging  at  the  west  portal,  the  downward  stretch 
of  twenty-two  miles  commands  some  of  the  grandest  panoramic 
views  in  the  world.  The  roadway,  supported  on  a  shelf  of  rock  cut 
in  the  steep  slopes,  sweeps  around  the  hills,  crossing  deep  ravines 
and  sparkling  water-courses  on  magnificent  viaducts  of  steel; 
solving  the  problems  of  distance  and  obstruction  by  a  score  of 
tunnels  and  numberless  rocky  cuts,  the  walls  of  which  stand  like 
watch  towers  above  the  grade.  From  the  high  line,  near  the 
summit,  the  long  and  winding  way  may  be  seen  for  many  miles, 
lower  and  lower,  until  it  is  lost  in  the  maze  of  hills  that  hems  in 
the  entire  perspective. 

It  is  a  matchless  mountain  view,  with  the  dazzling  glory  of 
the  North  Fork  River  glistening  like  a  silver  thread  in  the  shady 
depths.     The  forest  — 

"On  the  hilts,  like  green-vested  choirs,  ten  million  strong. 
Sough  to  their  Maker,  an  endless  Thanksgiving  Song  ; 
While  in  the  valley,  the  soft-toned  organ  at  the  bend. 
Joins  in  tlie  vesper-hymn,  praising  Cod,  world  without  end." 


One  thousand  feet  above  the  valley  level,  the  line  turns  into 
East  Fork  Loop,  where  a  deep  "fill"  is  followed  by  a  long  tunnel, 
another  heavy  embankment,  a  second  curving  tunnel  and  a  bridge, 
all  describing  a  half  circle,  with  the  rails  resting,  one  side  on  the 
dizzy  height  of  one  mountain,  the  other  appreciably  lower  on  the 
opposing  wall  of  another  hill,  yet  not  a  quarter  of  a  mile  apart. 
On  these  slopes  is  a  paradise  of  great  game — bear,  deer,  elk  and 
moose — while  the  call  of  the  mountain  lion  disturbs  the  deep  silence 
of  the  wood. 

At  the  foot  of  the  western  slope  the  rails  lie  close  to  the  St.  Joe 
River,  which  for  a  long  distance  is  a  swiftly  flowing  stream,  but  at 
the  town  of  St.  Joe  it  parts  with  its  title,  "The  Swiftwater,"  and 
becomes  "The  Shadowy  St.  Joe."  The  line  runs  within  sight  of 
this  lovely  stream  for  thirty  miles,  tall  mountains  walling  in 
the  valley  the  entire  distance.  The  Northern  Idaho  district  is  in 
the  front  rank  in  the  development  work.  It  has  already  demon- 
strated its  value  in  mineral  wealth  and  its  timber  resources  are 
apparent  at  sight.  The  wonderful  St.  Joe  Valley,  including  the 
richest  portions  of  the  newly  opened  Coeur  d'Alene  Reservation, 
is  the  most  attractive  and  most  desirable  of  this  "Idaho  Pan 
Handle,"  possessing  all  the  natural  advantages  which  make  for 
ideal  location. 

The  timber  industries  of  the  St.  Joe  country  are  unsurpassed, 
one  of  the  largest  sawmills  in  the  Pacific  Northwest  being  located 
at  St.  Joe,  the  head  of  navigation.  Steamers  ply  between  St.  Joe 
and  the  ports  on  Coeur  d'Alene  Lake.  The  territory  tributary  to 
the  railroad  in  this  valley  possesses  varied  wealth.     Its  value  as 


\ 


\ 


il^ 


It 


farming  country  can  hardly  be  estimated.  The  river  bottoms  are 
rich  alluvial  soil  and  the  cleared  land  on  the  mountains  is  unsur- 
passed for  cultivation  of  all  fruits  and  vegetables.  One  hillside 
garden  at  St.  Joe  is  a  marvel.  The  mountain  slope  is  almost 
prohibitive,  and  certainly  a  spade  is  a  more  valuable  implement 
here  than  a  plow,  yet  the  owner  has  ten  acres  under  high  cultivation 
raising  vegetables  and  fruits  (berries  and  apples),  from  which  he 
realizes  enormous  profits  at  the  Spokane  and  near-by  markets. 
A  stairway  is  cut  in  the  hillside  through  the  center  of  this  garden, 
certainly  a  unique  feature  in  market  gardening. 
j  At  St.  Maries,  one  of  the  most  promising  and  beautifully  situ- 

^/^  ated  towns  on  this  line,  the  St.  Maries  River  flows  into  the  St.  Joe, 
and  the  Elk  River  line  leads  from  this  place  up  the  St.  Maries  Valley 
into  the  largest  remaining  section  of  standing  white  pine  timber 
in  the  world.  The  St.  Maries  Valley  extends  southward  toward 
the  noted  Clearwater  country  of  Idaho  and  contains  a  large  area 
of  unsurpassed  agricultural  and  fruit  land.  Just  west  of  St.  Maries 
the  main  line  enters  the  Coeur  d'Alene  Reservation,  recently 
opened,  and  ascends  gradually  above  beautiful  Lake  Chatcolet, 
a  water  sheet  of  which  the  followers  of  the  faith  of  Sir  Izaak  may 
say  with  their  high  priest,  "Doubtless  God  could  have  made  a 
better  place  to  fish,  but  doubtless  God  never  did."  The  line  rises 
perceptibly  through  the  reservation  and  enters  Washington,  in 
Whitman  County,  one  of  the  banner  wheat-raising  counties  of 
the  State.  The  wide  stretch  of  upland,  the  rolling,  round-head 
hills,  as  far  as  eye  reaches,  are  the  famed  Palouse  wheat  fields. 
Immediately    west   of   the    Idaho-Montana    State    boundary,    the 


^ 


5C:«wiSiL-^-*;- 


proposed  Spokane  "cut-off"  will  bring  the  main  line  into  the 
splendid  city  of  the  Inland  Empire.  The  railway  passes  through 
the  richest  portion  of  the  Palouse  country,  a  section  of  eastern 
Washington  settled  upon  many  years  ago  and  producing  immense 
crops  of  wheat  yearly,  beside  fruit  that  equals  in  quality  any 
of  the  famous  fruit-growing  valleys  of  the  West. 

All  this  region  is  watered  by  numerous  creeks  flowing  into  the 
Palouse  River,  which  flows  southward  into  the  Snake  River;  or 
water-courses  that  carry  their  streams  by  way  of  the  Spokane  River 
northward  to  the  Columbia.  The  Spokane  country  is  famous  in 
Indian  history,  for  almost  every  inch  of  its  possession  has  been 
disputed  "knife  to  the  hilt"  by  the  red  men  who  fought  for  their 
hereditary  rights  with  a  fierce  persistence.  The  Coeur  d'Alenes,  the 
Spokanes,  the  Nez  Perces,  and  all  the  tribes  to  the  west  and  north, 
showed  neither  mercy  nor  friendliness  to  the  invaders  who  came  to 
rob  them  of  their  ancestral  valleys  and  hills.  The  battlefields  of 
the  Modoc  wars  spread  through  these  plains  and  the  tribes  engaged 
were  native  here.  Today  the  scene  is  the  reverse  of  warlike.  A 
pastoral  quiet  pervades  the  region,  with  thriving  cities  to  vary 
the  picture. 

West  of  Pine  City,  one  of  the  oldest  towns  of  Eastern 
Washington — and  a  hamlet  that  is  like  a  bit  of  New  England 
transferred  to  the  far  West — the  line  swings  up  to  the  bluffs  that 
overlook  Rock  Lake,  and  for  nine  miles  it  lies  along  the  high 
palisades  of  this  mysterious  body  of  water  which  has  no  known 
source  nor  has  its  depth  ever  been  ascertained.  Its  undercurrent 
is  like  the  quicksands,  and  no  white  man  has  ever  been  able  to 


V  V 


i, 


\  ^^.7^ 


4iif 


,w> 


^^ 


4 


I 


*»r,' 


» 


The  "Lake  of  Mystery" — Rock  Lake 


X" 


n 


1 


.^ 


.■^■. 


swim  across.  The  Indians,  however,  cherish  a  tradition  of  a  royal 
chief  who  defied  the  evil  spirit  that  presides  in  the  murky  depths, 
and  safely  breasted  the  sullen  waters.  This  tradition  accounted  to 
them  for  a  natural  arch  above  the  palisades,  raised  by  the  Great 
Spirit  in  commemoration  of  the  bold  deed.  The  banks  are  sheer 
walls  of  rock,  of  deep  reddish  hue,  jagged  and  serrated,  alternating 
with  flat  ramparts  above  precipitous  heights.  Strange  formations 
appear  in  the  surfaces,  often  uncanny  and  always  picturesque. 
At  the  head  of  the  lake  a  miniature  cascade  falls  over  the  ledges 
in  a  bridal  veil,  the  clear  stream  soon  losing  its  identity  in  the 
clouded  waters.  South  of  this  lake  of  mystery,  the  country 
spreads  away  in  magnificent  perspective,  watered  by  Rock  Creek, 
on  the  winding,  tree-hung  banks  of  which  many  of  the  old  settlers 
still  reside,  their  beautiful  ranch  homes  presenting  the  ideal  of 
country  life. 

Westward  through  Adams  County  the  soil  becomes  lighter 
and  dry-farming  is  practiced  exclusively.  The  plan  of  summer- 
fallowing  is  paramount  and  the  Campbell  system  here  attains  its 
highest  ideal.  Meandering  streams,  their  banks  lined  with  verdure, 
relieve  the  monotony  of  the  immense  grain  fields  that  rise  over 
the  hills  to  the  horizon  line.  Fine  wagon  roads  lead  in  from  all 
directions  and  the  location  of  this  railway  is  fortunate  in  that 
the  wagon  trains  of  wheat  have — to  use  the  local  vernacular  — 
"the  down-hill  pull." 

The  CcEur  d'Alene  Mountains,  that  have  bordered  the  northern 
skyline,  now  gradually  sink  from  sight  and  the  Cascade  Range 
appears  in  the  distant  West,  shadowy  and  snow-capped,  and  at 


r 


u> ' 


certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  clear  atmosphere  reveals  the 
glittering  mantle  of  Mount  Rainier's  towering  dome,  from  Warden, 
180  miles  away.  Mystic,  hazy  and  cloud-like,  the  master  of  the 
Cascades  lifts  its  great  height  into  the  blue  empyrean,  marking  the 
way  to  the  western  seas.  Warden  is  the  junction  of  the  Marcellus 
line  which  leads  northward  into  the  heart  of  one  of  the  rich  wheat 
raising  districts  of  Washington. 

Westward,  in  Grant  County,  almost  due  south  of  the  point 
where  the  Columbia  makes  its  great  bend,  a  wide  valley  opens 
away  at  the  north  of  the  railroad,  wild  land,  almost  exclusively, 
but  at  varying  intervals  a  small  stream  meanders  fitfully  through 
the  bottoms,  and  wherever  the  water-course  appears  the  verdure 
along  its  banks  and  the  spreading  green  meadows  indicate  the 
wealth  of  the  soil  under  the  influence  of  moisture.  This  stream  is 
the  Crab  Creek  Sink,  which  flows  long  distances  in  a  subterranean 
bed,  coming  to  the  surface  for  a  space,  then  disappearing,  perhaps 
to  reappear  at  the  far  side  of  the  valley.  Along  its  southern 
boundary  are  the  brown  and  barren  cliffs  of  the  Saddle  Mountains, 
while  away  at  the  north,  beyond  the  foothills,  are  the  noted 
Frenchman  Hill  and  Big  Bend  wheat  countries.  The  Crab  Creek 
Basin  is  said  to  be  the  ancient  bed  of  the  Columbia  River,  which 
in  ages  long  gone  had  taken  this  more  direct  course,  until  by  some 
convulsion  of  Nature  it  was  turned  away  at  the  Big  Bend,  making 
a  wide  detour  before  it  again  sought  its  old  accustomed  channel. 
Crab  Creek  Sink  empties  into  the  Columbia  at  a  gap  in  the  Saddle 
Mountains,  where  it  would  seem  that  the  great  cataclysm  which 
tore  the   river   from  its  course  had   riven  the   solid  wall  of  rock 


Ki    I 


jr-wff^ 


to  permit  the  passing  of  the  flood.  A  number  of  irrigation 
schemes  are  projected  in  the  Crab  Creek  district,  and  when 
their  ditches  reach  its  deep  volcanic  soil,  the  development  will 
be  miraculous,  adding  an  enormous  acreage  to  Washington's 
productive  territory. 

At  Beverly,  near  the  mouth  of  Crab  Creek,  the  railway  crosses 
the  peerless  river  of  the  Far  West  on  a  magnificent  steel  bridge, 
nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  lifted  above  the  water  sufficiently  to 
permit  the  passage  of  boats  beneath  its  "through  span."  West  of 
the  Columbia  the  rails  rise  over  the  Saddle  Mountains,  and 
descending  thence,  enter  the  magnificent  Kittitas  Valley.  The 
overwhelming  beauty  of  the  prospect,  spreading  out  in  great 
distances,  surrounded  by  mountain  ranges  that  rise  in  the  north- 
west to  the  snow  line,  with  the  overmastering  height  of  Mount 
Rainier  visible  at  the  southwest,  is  an  inspiring  sight  and  one  to 
remain  forever  in  the  memory.  The  Kittitas  is  one  of  the  banner 
fruit  districts  of  Washington,  and  not  only  fruit,  but  everything 
that  grows  in  the  temperate  zones  comes  to  perfection  in  this 
region.  The  Yakima  River  flows  through  the  western  part  of 
the  valley,  providing  an  inexhaustible  water  supply  for  irrigation. 
Kittitas  County  is  the  geographical  center  of  Washington  and 
the  valley  contains  about  6,000  square  miles,  with  every  acre 
of  its  soil  capable  of  producing  everything  necessary  for  the 
subsistence  of  the  human  race.  In  the  midst  of  this  garden 
spot  is  the  city  of  EUensburg,  the  county  seat  and  metropolis 
of  the  valley.  It  is  one  of  the  thriving  and  most  attractive  towns 
in  Washington.     It  has  every  advantage,  social  and  commercial, 


I 


•?f 


'■y.  V 


to  render  it  a  most  delightful  place  of  residence,  and  the  beauty 
of  its  surroundings  completes  the  desirability  in  this  respect. 

History  lurks  in  the  background  of  the  sunlit  Kittitas  Valley. 
The  early  settlers,  moving  eastward  from  the  coast  and  Puget 
Sound  countries,  fought  its  possession  foot  by  foot  with  the  Indians, 
who  resented  their  coming.  Theirs  was  the  right  of  eminent 
domain,  and  they  had  no  wish  to  share  their  privileges  with  their 
pale-faced  brethren.  The  Yakima  tribes  foregathered  there  with 
their  allies  from  all  sides,  and  previous  to  the  treaty  of  Walla  Walla 
it  is  said  that  30,000  Indians  were  encamped  at  the  eastern  end  of 
the  Kittitas,  while  their  chiefs  and  medicine-men  held  council  with 
the  envoys  of  the  United  States  Government. 

West  of  Ellensburg  the  line  continues  up  the  Yakima  River 
under  a  long  palisade  of  "painted  rocks,"  whose  gorgeous  hues 
seem  to  reflect  all  the  colors  of  the  spectrum.  The  mountains, 
rising  on  all  sides,  are  heavily  timbered,  while  coal  and  mineral  are 
hidden  beneath  their  rock-ribbed  surfaces.  The  Cascades  are  a 
forbidding  barrier,  their  tall,  jagged  peaks  piercing  the  sky,  while 
eternal  snows  lie  on  their  deeply  cleft  slopes  and  glisten  from  out 
their  shadowy  canyons.  Within  deep,  green  vales  are  cloudland 
lakes  that  rival  in  beauty  and  magnificence  the  blue  waters  of 
Alpine  heights.  A  short  distance  from  the  station  of  Easton, 
where  "mountain  grade"  begins,  are  the  two  Lakes  Kachess,  the 
most  dazzlingly  lovely  water  sheets  on  this  continent.  Towering, 
pine-clad  mountains  sweep  grandly  up  from  the  water-side,  and  at 
either  end  eternal  snows  look  down  from  lofty  summits  that  close 
the  encircling  chain.    The  trout  fishing  in  these  lakes  is  renowned 


A 


^ 


\^ 


throughout  the  Pacific  country,  the  rainbow  beauties  sporting  in 
countless  thousands  in  their  clear,  cold  waters.  At  the  upper  end 
of  Little  Kachess  are  the  half-ruined  buildings  of  an  old  Hudson 
Bay  Fur  Company's  post,  and  the  trails  of  the  trappers  are  still  in 
use  through  the  dense  forests. 

Another  mountain  lake,  which  lies  for  twelve  miles  close  to  the 
railway,  at  an  elevation  of  2,485  feet,  slightly  above  Kachess,  is 
Keechelus,  suspended  in  a  deep  basin  whose  forest  banks  rise  a 
thousand  feet  in  steep  slope  above  the  water.  Here,  too,  is 
Fishermen's  Paradise.  A  legend  of  Lake  Keechelus  is  that  the  late 
Gen.  George  B.  McClellan,  before  he  had  won  his  spurs,  was  in  the 
Cascade  Mountains  fighting  the  hostiles;  when,  in  full  retreat  over 
Snoqualmie  Pass,  he  found  his  artillery  in  the  way  of  a  masterly  / 
leave-taking.  He,  therefore,  concluded  to  drop  his  guns  into  the 
waters  of  Keechelus,  near  the  eastern  shore.  The  spot  was  carefully 
marked  and  the  guns  were  lowered.  The  depth  of  Keechelus 
is  unknown,  and  when  later,  an  effort  was  made  to  recover  the 
lost  pieces,  never  a  trace  of  them  could  be  found.  McClellan, 
before  he  left  the  West,  became  a  noted  Indian  fighter,  and  a  lofty 
^crag,  crowning  a  bold  headland  on  the  western  slope  of  these 
mountains,  was  named  in  his  honor — McClellan's  Butte.  Still 
(^g^  ascending  through  the  deep  forests  that  come  close  in  to  the  tracks, . 
^^*^the  mountains  gather  in    terrifying   numbers  and  grandeur,   and 

{•j|^-y«the   way  seems  completely  blocked   by  the  tremendous  barriers. 

^    /   The  line  reaches  the  summit  at  Snoqualmie  Pass,  3,010  feet  high. 

";^j|p~The  old  Snoqualmie  trail,  famous  in  Indian  fight  and  foray,  crosses 

the  rails   immediately  east  of  Laconia,   the  summit  station.     On 


'dt^^- 


.•^-^' 


^.< 


the  right  of  the  pass  is  McCall's  Peak,  a  massive  pillar  of  rugged 
granite  that  rises,  seemingly,  out  of  the  right-of-way,  and  as  the 
line  swings  away  on  the  downward  slope,  the  sharply  serrated 
outline  of  cloud-wreathed,  snow-mantled,  "fearsorrie"  heights 
crowds  in,  and  the  great  Cascade  Range  is  risen  in  its  mighty 
glory  full  on  the  view.  Leaving  the  pass,  the  rails  follow  the 
canyon  of  the  east  fork  of  the  Snoqualmie  River,  amid  some  of  the 
most  bewildering  scenic  splendor  of  the  western  world.  The 
compelling  power  of  Nature  in  her  magnificent  moods  is  displayed 
in  the  panorama  that  unfolds  to  westward,  reaching  from  the 
white-mantled  peaks  on  the  north  to  kingly  Rainier,  at  the  south. 
Rugged,  rock-ribbed  hills  stretch  far  away  into  the  hazy  atmos- 
phere, and  tower  high  above  the  clouds.  From  the  railroad,  that 
lies  high  on  a  shelf  of  rock,  the  river  is  lost  to  view  and  the  rails 
seem  to  rest  on  the  tops  of  the  tall  fir  trees  which  stand  in 
unbroken  columns  on  the  mountain  sides.  As  the  grade  swings 
lower,  the  valley  falls  abruptly  away,  the  prospect  widens  and  the 
silvery  waters  of  the  Snoqualmie  River  are  visible  in  winding 
course  for  a  long  distance. 

The  passage  of  the  Cascade  Mountains  concludes  the  long 
series  of  engineering  triumphs  included  in  the  construction  of  this 
railroad,  and  when  the  grade  reaches  the  level  it  enters  Cedar  River 
Valley,  pursuing  its  course  along  the  brink  of  the  pure  and 
sparkling  stream  which  supplies  the  public  service  of  Seattle.  As 
the  valley  spreads  out,  the  rugged  splendor  softens  into  the  genial 
loveliness  of  an  agricultural  landscape,  which  stretches  westward 
to  the  shores  of  Puget  Sound.     The  country  of  the  North  Pacific 


i 


i 


"abL 


«fl«^ 


**-, 


^" 


Jv^r — - 


/■ 


% 


.<<!g:ib)s^^^/C;'<JtC-  7-^.  >» 


is  famed  for  its  great  fertility,  its  beauty  and  its  wonderful 
climate.  Everything  grows  in  this  region  with  almost  tropical 
luxuriance,  helped  by  favoring  winds,  gentle  rains  and  "golden 
days  of  sunshine." 

At  Moncton,  the  foot  of  the  mountain  grade,  a  line  extends 
down  the  Snoqualmie  River  to  Everett,  in  Snohomish  County, 
a  young  and  thriving  city,  whose  harbor  is  already  third  in 
importance  on  Puget  Sound.  Its  sawmills  and  lumber  industries 
rank  among  the  largest  in  the  world.  It  is  called  "The  City  of 
Smokestacks,"  from  the  number  of  its  mills  and  factories,  and  it 
is  said  the  hum  of  a  saw  may  be  heard  from  one  end  of  Snohomish 
County  to  the  other.  The  logged-off  land  in  the  vicinity  is 
inestimably  valuable  for  dairy  farming,  and  milk  condenseries  form 
one  of  the  important  commercial  enterprises  of  Everett.  No  city 
on  the  Sound  is  more  beautifully  located.  The  view  from  Port 
Gardiner  Bay  is  an  ever-to-be-remembered  picture — the  Cascade 
Mountains  at  the  east,  with  a  long  range  of  named  and  unnamed 
pinnacles  monopolizing  the  shore  line;  Glacier  Peak,  10,000  feet 
high,  stands  farthest,  and  down  its  icy  slopes  slowly  creep  the 
frozen  rivers  that  loosen  their  flood-gates  in  Lake  Chelan;  Mount 
Baker  lifts  its  snowy  cone  in  majestic  isolation  at  the  far  north, 
and  Mount  Rainier  maintains  a  lonely  vigil  on  the  southern  horizon. 
The  Everett  Harbor,  situated  on  Port  Gardiner  Bay,  has  in  addition 
to  its  sea  front  a  fresh-water  roadstead  where  vessels  of  heaviest 
draft  can  find  anchorage,  and  when  certain  new  Government  work 
is  completed  Everett  will  enjoy  one  of  the  finest  salt-water  harbors 
on  the  Pacific  Coast  and  twenty  miles  of  fresh-water  wharf  frontage. 


m, 


*iM 


.  »^ 


'.*-  • 


The  city  has  every  advantage  common  to  the  modern  up-to-date 
metropolis,  is  served  by  transcontinental  railroads  and  a  complete 
interurban  electric  railway. 

Passing  down  the  Cedar  River  Valley,  in  full  view  of  the 
limpid  stream,  through  fertile  meadows,  under  high  cultivation, 
the  railway  branches  at  Black  River  Junction,  one  arm  stretching 
toward  Seattle  and  the  other  toward  Tacoma,  the  western  termini 
of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  Puget  Sound  Railway. 

Seattle  is  the  oldest  American  settlement  on  Puget  Sound  and 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  the  United  States.  Little  more 
than  fifty  years  ago  the  first  settlers  landed  upon  its  difficult  shores, 
but  those  who  camped  there  and  laid  the  foundations  of  a  town 
had  no  dreams  commensurate  with  the  splendor  of  the  present 
reality.  The  discovery  of  gold  in  Alaska,  the  Yukon  stampede, 
and  the  establishment  of  oriental  trade  were  among  the  factors 
that  gave  the  city  its  phenomenal  impetus.  By  reason  of  its 
exceptional  location,  it  commands  the  commerce  of  the  Western 
Hemisphere.  Its  harbor  is  admirable,  deep  and  ample  in  size,  and 
its  railroad  facilities  and  terminals  are  upon  a  magnificent  scale. 
Enterprise  is  the  basic  quality  of  Seattle,  and  wealth  abounds.  The 
scenic  beauty  surrounding  the  city  is  unsurpassed;  the  heavy  mass 
of  the  Cascade  Mountains  is  but  a  short  distance  to  the  east,  and 
the  glorious  snow-crowned  Olympics  make  a  thrilling  picture  on 
the  west,  when  their  rugged  outlines  come  out  in  sharp  relief  against 
a  sunset  sky. 

Scarcely  a  mile  east  of  the  sound  is  Lake  Washington,  a 
utiful  body  of  fresh  water  lying  within  a  nest  of  hills,  making 


-^* 


a  wonderful  recreation  spot  right  at  the  city's  door,  accessible  by 
street  cars,  and  having  Interlachen  Boulevard,  one  of  the  most 
charming  drives  in  the  world,  leading  up  to  and  around  its  shores. 
This  magnificent  avenue  rises  and  dips  with  the  contour  of  the  hills, 
running  a  long  distance  through  a  parkway  system  that  challenges 
those  of  the  oldest  cities.  On  either  side  are  enchanting  glimpses 
of  water  and  hillside  covered  in  dark  evergreens,  with  palatial 
homes  and  broad  avenues,  flower  lined,  alternating  in  the  view,  and 
if  the  day  is  clear,  the  glittering,  icy  dome  of  Mount  Rainier, 
ninety  miles  away,  crowns  the  prospect.  The  population  of  Seattle 
numbers  about  250,000,  and  apart  from  the  great  things  the  city 
has  accomplished  in  growth  and  progress  the  new  projects  under 
way  are  legion,  among  which  is  the  opening  of  the  Duwamish 
River  and  the  construction  of  Lake  Washington  Canal,  designed 
to  give  the  city  greater  shipping  facilities  than  any  other  port  in 
the  world.  Its  substantial  character  is  further  shown  in  the  tall 
skyscraper  structures,  magnificent  public  buildings,  docks,  depots, 
hotels,  churches,  schools,  and  its  elegant  homes,  which  stand 
embowered  in  flowers  and  foliage,  one  of  the  noted  sights  of  the 
Puget  Sound  city. 

Southward  from  Black  River  Junction  lies  the  famous  Puyallup 
Valley,  where  in  its  splendid  bottoms  the  finest  farms  flourish, 
thriving  towns  dot  the  landscape  and  multiply  as  the  line 
approaches  Tacoma,  the  beautiful  city  of  Commencement  Bay 
and  the  second  in  size  on  Puget  Sound.  Its  population  is  over 
80,000  and  it  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  all  western  cities, 
both  in  respect  to  its  commercial  possibilities  and  its  advantages  as 


} 


V 

U 
'I 


U 


fi-. 


Washington  Firs — Tacoma  Eastern  Railway 


-    > »     •»  ">St.    -  - 


^^«.  •»  % 


■.>a::?r. 


a  place  of  residence.  Its  tide-flat  area  offers  unsurpassed  facilities 
for  the  development  of  manufactures,  and  its  noble  deep-sea 
harbor,  with  miles  of  shore  line  and  acres  of  dockage,  invites  the 
shipping  of  the  world.  It  has  been  said  that  Tacoma's  water  front 
was  her  greatest  asset,  and  it  already  has  six  miles  of  wharves,  on 
which  are  the  largest  warehouses  in  the  world.  Its  business  streets 
are  models  of  substantial  construction,  while  its  public  buildings 
display  the  wealth  and  good  taste  of  the  community.  The  city 
rises  from  the  water  level,  with  hillsides  terraced  and  blossoming, 
where  beautiful  homes  and  lovely  parks  mark  the  line  above  the 
business  center.  From  the  wooded  bluffs  that  crown  the  shore 
is  a  scene  of  matchless  splendor.  Mount  Rainier  rises  sheer 
from  sea-level,  to  the  southeast, — "a  Heaven-sustaining  bulwark" 
that  stands  immeasurably  away  from  and  above  its  companions 
of  the  Cascade  Range  sweeping  to  the  north  and  west;  toward 
the  Olympics,  the  most  beautiful  and  rugged  of  all  the  western 
mountain  ranges.  Tacoma  is  known  as  "The  Home  City,"  and 
its  gardens  of  roses,  its  endless  varieties  of  flowering  shrubs  and 
plants  and  display  of  architectural  beauty  make  it  justly  famous. 
As  becomes  a  town  of  such  wealth  and  refinement,  the  educational 
advantages  are  exceptional  and  the  Tacoma  high  school  enjoys 
a  deserved  reputation  for  beauty  of  design,  construction  and 
complete  equipment.  In  connection  with  this  high  school,  and 
its  scheme  of  physical  as  well  as  mental  training,  is  an  enormous 
stadium,  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  in  this  country,  built  to 
accommodate  25,000  people.  Within  its  arena  all  the  outdoor  sports 
are  presented,  while  its  location,  on  the  shores  of  Puget  Sound, 


PV^I 

^i'U^Ti^B 

^^^^^^r^f 

^^^E  *^ 

'tk!!'- 

■■■^-^Mi  . 

■HI 

"S 

i 


1 


i» 


gives  spectators  an  opportunity  to  review  the  maneuvers  of  fleets 
and  the  various  watercraft  coming  to  Tacoma's  roadstead  for  a 
summer  meeting. 

The  country  adjacent  to  Puget  Sound's  meandering  shore 
line  is  full  of  interest  and  beauty,  and  many  trips  of  unmixed 
enjoyment  may  be  included  in  an  itinerary  of  the  Pacific  North- 
west's "splendid  water  avenue."  The  Seattle  suburbs  skirt  the 
shore  line  of  Elliott  Bay  and  may  be  reached  by  electric  cars  or  by 
ferry  and  steamer,  affording  delightful  excursions  by  land  or  by  sea. 
Tacoma  sweeps  around  the  long  contour  of  Commencement  Bay, 
and  its  list  of  resorts  comprises  some  of  the  most  delightful  trips  in 
this  section.  A  trip  to  Bremerton  and  return  is  an  enjoyable  day's 
ride  by  steamer,  with  several  hours  to  inspect  the  United  States 
Navy  Yards  located  there.  Bremerton  is  beautifully  situated  on  an 
arm  of  Puget  Sound,  where  the  entire  United  States  Navy  might 
ride  without  crowding.  These  yards,  although  of  comparatively 
recent  establishment,  have  a  fine  and  complete  equipment,  including 
enormous  dry-docks,  where  the  largest  battleships  may  be  floated 
onto  the  stays  direct  from  deep  water,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  week 
passes  by  but  that  one  or  more  of  Uncle  Sam's  famous  sea-fighters 
do  not  put  in  there. 

A  water  excursion  of  more  than  usual  interest  is  north  to  Port 
Townsend,  at  the  head  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  the  port  of  entry  and 
departure  for  all  the  shipping  to  and  from  Alaska  and  the  Orient. 
The  voyage  up  the  Sound  is  most  delightful,  the  historic,  forest- 
bordered  water-course,  with  its  myriad  slender  arms  winding  in 
every  direction,   having  an  enchanting  beauty  and  a  charm  not 


^^\. 


■4l^- 


^^ag^-^ 


comparable  with  any  other  of  the  world's  inland  seas.  Beyond 
the  western  shores  lie  the  great  unexplored  Olympic  Mountains, 
their  whitened  crowns  towering  into  the  skies  and  their  dark, 
rock-ribbed  sides  sloping  steeply  toward  the  northern  seas.  On 
the  east  are  the  Cascades,  with  their  snow-domed  sentinels  at 
north  and  south,  and  far  in  the  north  the  Selkirk  Mountains  loom 
in  shadowy  outline.  Port  Townsend  is  delightfully  situated,  high 
above  a  magnificent  harbor,  through  which  the  warm  Japan 
Current  flows,  tempering  the  climate  to  absolutely  ideal  conditions. 
Although  almost  completely  surrounded  by  water,  the  rainfall  is 
light,  and  the  range  of  temperatures  make  it  a  perfect  all-the-year 
resort  and  residence.  Port  Townsend  and  the  history  of  Washington 
are  inseparable.  It  is  the  Government  headquarters  for  the 
Puget  Sound  district,  and  within  easy  access,  by  carriage  road  and 
by  waterway,  are  three  military  posts,  of  which  Fort  Worden  is  the 
largest,  and  the  headquarters  of  the  coast  defense.  The  city  is 
also  a  base  for  naval  and  revenue  cutter  service,  the  Puget  Sound 
customs,  and  the  United  States  public  health  and  marine  hospital 
service. 

The  Tacoma  Eastern  Railway,  running  southeasterly  from 
Tacoma,  leads  into  the  heart  of  Washington's  big  timber,  and  on 
to  that  "Wonderland  of  the  Cascades,"  the  Rainier  National  Park, 
with  Mount  Rainier,  the  silent  sentinel  of  Puget  Sound,  in  its 
midst.  The  section  adjacent  to  the  railroad,  for  some  distance 
south  of  Tacoma,  has  been  cut  over  and  the  cleared  land  is  under 
high  cultivation,  producing  garden  stuffs,  fruits,  poultry  and  dairy 
necessities  for  the  Puget  Sound  cities  and  a  wide  area  of  country. 


A 


\-'  ■'■■'ilfi...-. 


Notwithstanding  this,  lumber  maintains  supremacy  in  the  locality, 
and  the  hum  of  the  saw  is  heard  in  all  the  outlying  towns.  The 
rails  skirt  the  edge  of  beautiful  valleys  and  charming  lakes  that  are 
the  haunts  of  lovers  of  the  rod  and  line.  Kapowsin  and  Ohop  are 
the  largest  of  these,  and  they  find  their  outlets  in  swiftly  running 
brooks,  where  the  speckled  and  rainbow  beauties  throng.  The 
route  discloses  at  frequent  intervals  marvelous  views  of  Mount 
Rainier,  its  snow-enveloped  slopes  reaching  down  to  the  tree-tops 
of  the  valley.  Circling  above  a  wide,  grassy  basin,  the  line  enters 
the  canyon  of  the  Nisqually  River,  following  its  winding  course, 
with  the  mad  stream  dashing  between  tremendous  rocky  walls, 
hundreds  of  feet  below. 

Eatonville  and  Elbe,  enterprising  lumber  centers,  are  note- 
worthy as  being  old  stage  relay  stations  in  the  days  before  the 
railroad.  The  vine-covered  porch  of  the  old  Snow  Tavern,  at  the 
former  place,  looks  out  on  the  beautiful  mountain  that  hangs 
cloud-enwreathed  in  the  blue  heavens,  thirty  miles  away 

At  Electron,  near  Kapowsin,  the  Puyallup  River  is  harnessed 
to  the  immense  plant  of  the  Puget  Sound  Power  Company,  that 
supplies  Tacoma  and  Seattle  with  electric  current.  The  city  of 
Tacoma  is  constructing  another  plant  which  will  receive  its  power 
from  the  Nisqually  River  at  this  point.  This  river  will  be  turned 
from  its  beautiful  canyon  gorge  into  a  tunnel  10,000  feet  long, 
which  will  carry  it  to  the  power-house  on  the  river  below.  These 
rivers  are  both  glacial  streams  from  the  summit  of  the  great 
mountain,  and  thus  "The  mountain  that  was  God"  to  the  Indian, 
obeys  the  call  of  the  white  man  "to  do  his  high  behest." 


,^^' 


\ 


Connecting  with  the  Tacoma  Eastern  at  McKenna,  about 
thirty  miles  from  Tacoma,  the  Gray's  Harbor  line  extends  westward 
to  Gray's  Harbor  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  tapping  rich  timber  districts 
and  running  many  miles  through  forests  of  immense  cedar,  some 
of  the  largest  in  the  State.  This  line  reaches  wide-awake  new  cities 
that  have  come  into  existence  within  the  last  few  years,  each 
one  a  type  of  the  phenomenal  development  throughout  the  North 
Pacific  territory.  Cosmopolis,  Aberdeen  and  Hoquiam  are  the 
prominent  cities  on  Gray's  Harbor  that  have  tales  of  remarkable 
progress  to  publish  in  connection  with  their  advantageous  location 
and  the  limitless  resources  of  the  surrounding  territory. 

Gray's  Harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Trans- 
Pacific  steamships  sail  between  its  principal  cities  and  the  ports  of 
Asia,  Australia  and  the  South  Sea  Islands,  and  statistics  prove 
that  more  lumber  is  shipped  from  Gray's  Harbor  to  foreign  markets 
than  from  any  other  port  in  the  world. 

Timber  and  lumber  industries  are,  of  course,  paramount  now 
in  this  district,  some  of  these  ranking  among  the  largest  in  the 
world;  but  the  wonderful  productivity  of  the  soil,  the  equable 
climate  and  the  growing  demand  of  nearby  markets  are  turning 
this  into  a  great  agricultural  country.  Diversified  farming,  dairying 
and  poultry-raising  are  ideal  pursuits  here. 

At  Park  Junction  the  Tacoma  Eastern  branches,  one  branch 
extending  to  Ashford,  the  other  penetrating  the  noted  Big  Bottom 
Lands  of  the  Cowlitz  River,  a  country  of  remarkable  fertility. 
This  latter  route,  running  through  "Big  Trees,"  passes  Mineral 
Lake,  a  charming  little  water  sheet  cradled  among  mountains,  with 


I 


-w 


Mr' 


^ 


^^?^;^ 


Rainier  looking  over  a  gap  in  the  hills  to  catch  sight  of  a  perfect 
reflection  in  the  still,  deep  waters  of  the  lake.  This  is  one  of  the 
noted  fishing  resorts,  where  the  biggest  and  gamest  of  the  tribes 
are  found.  There  is  a  delightful  little  hotel  in  the  town  of  Mineral, 
built  of  logs  and  vine-embowered,  adding  its  mite  to  the  picturesque 
surroundings. 

Ashford  is  the  station  for  the  Rainier  National  Park,  and 
auto-stages  leave  from  this  place  for  the  incomparable  trip  up  the 
mountain.  Leaving  the  little  forest  hamlet  the  State  road  begins 
the  ascent,  leading  through  long  aisles  of  stately  evergreens  and 
passing  many  attractive  mountain  resorts  built  "in  the  clearing." 
Toward  National  Park  gateway  the  silent  forests  loom  in  their 
primeval  majesty,  with  an  undergrowth  so  dense  that  bright  day- 
light is  unknown,  yet  the  wealth  of  brilliant  green  and  the  wonderful 
carpeting  of  ferns  and  flowers  is  almost  beyond  belief.  In  brief 
openings  of  the  woodlands,  where  a  brawling  stream  leaps  over  a 
steep  and  rocky  bed,  are  rare  and  beautiful  glimpses  of  the  great 
mountain,  with  passing  views  of  mighty  peaks  which  constitute  the 
monarch's  guard  of  honor.  An  almost  perpendicular  cliff  seen 
through  the  timber,  with  the  towering  pinnacle  that  crowns  it,  the 
Indians  called  Turn  Tum.  Others  of  the  guard  which  are  named 
are  Arrow  Head,  Goat  Mountain,  Bald  Eagle  and  Pyramid  peaks, 
all  belonging  to  the  jagged  Tatoosh  group,  which  may  be  seen  far 
and  wide  throughout  the  Puget  Sound  country. 

The  drive  by  auto-bus  to  Longmire  Springs,  where  the  National 
Park  Inn  is  located,  is  up  an  easy  grade,  requiring  one  hour 
and  a  quarter  of  time;  and  as  the  road  curves  into  the  spacious 


^ 


driveway  at  the  Inn  the  full  impressive  splendor  of  Mount  Rainier, 
"on  a  throne  of  rock,  in  a  robe  of  clouds  and  a  diadem  of  snow," 
leaps  with  magnificent  challenge  into  the  foreground.  The  huge 
dome  sweeps  up  and  up,  its  "snows  that  are  older  than  history" 
glistening  white  and  pearly,  glowing  from  pink  to  rose  or  glittering 
blue  and  icy,  with  the  changing  light  and  shadow,  while  the 
encircling  chain  of  cloud-reaching  summits  that  are  robed  in  green, 
in  brown,  and  flecked  and  tipped  with  white  closes  in — an  austere 
assembly  before  an  imperial  throne.  Longmire  Springs  is  one  of 
the  noted  natural  resorts  of  the  Northwest.  The  springs,  of  which 
there  are  many,  are  destined  to  grow  in  fame  by  reason  of  their 
strong  medicinal  qualities  and  their  curative  efficiency.  The 
waters  are  delightfully  effervescent  and  are  pronounced  equal  to 
those  of  the  most  celebrated  spas  of  the  world. 

National  Park  Inn  is  the  starting  point  for  the  numerous  drives 
and  excursions  into  the  surrounding  mountains  and  valleys  and 
up  Mount  Rainier,  even  to  the  brink  of  the  craters  and  "Columbia's 
Crest."  The  government  road  extends  above  the  Inn,  past  the 
terminal  walls  of  the  huge  Nisqually  Glacier,  ascending  by  easy 
gradient  and  numerous  switch-backs,  passing  over  the  head  of  a 
mad,  dashing  cataract  which,  with  a  wild  leap,  plunges  into  a  deep 
abyss,  and  still  ascending  reaches  Paradise  Park,  where  flowers 
carpet  the  earth  that  touches  the  base  of  Rainier's  snow  line  and 
raise  their  beautiful  blossoms  beside  the  icy  glacier  itself.  Stages 
make  this  drive  daily,  creeping  slowly  up  the  wide  and  wonderful 
road,  the  depths  becoming  more  profound  as  the  valley  sinks 
from  sight.    The  vistas  opening  through  the  forest  display  a  wild 


The  Silent  Sentinel  of  Puget  Sound 


L.  .i 


t/^au 


I 

I 


confusion  of  jagged  peaks  tossed  in  bewildering  mass  against  the 
sky  line,  and  with  every  turn  of  the  winding  road  there  comes 
nearer,  more  solemnly  glorious  views  of  "The  Mountain;"  and  it 
is  these  returning  glimpses,  keeping  expectation  alert,  that  casts 
the  final  spell.  Thereafter  its  lure  is  ever  present.  Wherever  one 
may  be,  howsoever  wide  his  travels,  that  call  of  the  snow-crowned 
monarch  is  overmastering;   its  insistence  must  be  recognized. 

As  the  ascent  from  the  Inn  progresses  the  road  appears  far 
back  in  the  valley  at  a  prodigious  depth,  and  at  dizzy  heights 
above,  creeping  carefully  around  the  edge  of  the  projecting  cliffs. 
Occasional  glimpses  are  caught  of  the  wild  Nisqually  River, 
brawling  over  its  rock-strewn  bed,  until  the  bleak  and  frowning 
front  of  its  glacier  appears,  with  the  river  pouring  in  rippling 
stream  from  the  ice  cave  beneath  the  ponderous  terminal  wall. 
Above  the  glacier  the  road  ascends  on  a  sharper  gradient,  clinging 
to  the  cliffs  that  rise  sheer  above  the  valley,  and  when  the  summit 
is  reached  the  scene  which  unrolls  on  every  side,  and  in  the 
awesome  depths,  defies  description.  The  stern,  uncompromising 
grandeur  is  fairly  terrifying.  The  valley  is  lost,  1,000  feet  below, 
and  the  pinnacles  tower  1,000  feet  above,  while  the  road  seems  to 
hover  in  midair,  and  seems  projected  into  space  at  the  point  of  the 
jutting  cliff. 

Rounding  this  observation  point,  the  road  continues  onward 
to  Paradise  Valley,  crossing  above  Narada  Falls,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  mountain  cataracts  in  the  world.  Paradise  Valley  is  like 
a  wide  and  rolling  park,  covered  with  a  confusion  of  beautiful 
bloom.  An  annex  to  National  Park  Inn  is  located  on  Alta  Vista, 
the  most  attractive  spot  in  Paradise  Valley,  which  provides  thor- 
oughly first-class  accommodation  for  all  who  wish  to  remain  and 
commune  with  the  majesty  of  Nature.  The  mountain  looms  right 
at  hand  and  one  may  cross  to  its  snow  fields  and  look  down  upon 
mammoth  glaciers.  Cataracts  that  leap  in  foaming  whiteness  over 
the  somber  precipices  mingle  in  the  splendor  of  the  scene,  and  air 
,.,  as  soft  as  the  breath  of  summer  roses  gives  no  hint  that  this  is  the 
"i   boundary  of  eternal  snows  and  rivers  of  ice. 

Mount  Rainier  has  a  larger  glacial  system  than  the  entire 
Swiss  Alps  and  these  immense  ice  fields  are  of  never-failing  interest. 
The  climb  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Rainier  is  made  from  Paradise 
Valley,  and  for  those  who  are  less  ambitious  there  are  many  other 
very  dignified  heights  to  scale. 

Another  famous  trip  from  the  Inn  is  by  pony  and  mountain 

t.  trail  to  Indian  Henry's  Hunting  Grounds,  where  mirrored  lakes  and 

^  marvelous  vistas,  with  the  king  of  the  Cascades  in  overwhelming 

'.  glory,  add  to  the  compelling  power  of  this,  one  of  the  grandest  of 

Nature's  wonders. 

Mount  Ralnier's  glaciers  are  steadily  wearing  their  way  into 
the  great  peak,  and  it  is  estimated  that  they  will  eventually  level 
the  mountain  with  the  plain.    In  prehistoric  ages  this  was  a  volcanic 


.*^ 


peak,  its  three  craters  are  distinct  and  visible,  while  the  massive, 
truncated  cones  indicate  the  force  of  their  eruptions.  Its  burnt-out 
craters  are  now  filled  with  snow,  above  which  towers  the  great 
snow  mound  that  is  called  Columbia's  Crest,  being  the  highest 
point  in  the  United  States  outside  of  Alaska.  Twelve  great 
glacial  rivers  grind  their  way  down  the  mountain,  besides 
numberless  secondary  or  "interglaciers."  The  great  glaciers  are 
named  White,  the  largest  of  all,  Cowlitz,  Ingraham,  Winthrop, 
Carbon,  North  and  South  Mowich,  Puyallup,  North  and  South 
Tahoma,  Kautz  and  Nisqually.  The  most  important  of  the 
secondary  glaciers  are  Interglacier,  Paradise,  Stevens,  Frying  Pan 
and  Van  Trump. 

Such,  briefly,  is  the  story  of  the  new  railroad,  of  the  new  land 
it  traverses  and  something  of  the  scenic  beauties  along  its  way. 
If  the  panorama  here  attempted  would  seem  at  times  to  have  been 
overdrawn,  and  again,  possibly,  not  altogether  adequate,  let  it  be 
remembered  that  the  new  conditions  in  the  northwest  country's 
development  produce  results  that  would  have  been  considered 
nothing  less  than  miraculous  a  few  years  ago;  that,  although  it 
reads  like  the  Arabian  Nights,  it  is  reality.  Let  it  also  be  borne  in 
mind  that  Nature  in  her  varying  aspects  may  never  be  perfectly 
portrayed  by  pen  or  pencil.  Art  and  the  works  of  men  fall  within 
the  power  of  language,  but  in  the  harmonies  of  the  Infinite  there 
are  no  discords,  and  their  final  appeal  may  not  be  altogether  inter- 
preted through  the  medium  of  words.  To  have  seen  the  wonders 
of  the  Western  World  is  to  believe  in  their  possibilities  and  to  know 
that  "those  who  paint  them  truest  praise  them  most  " 


m 


■L--i 


CHICAGO,  MILWAUKEE  &  PUGET  SOUND  RAILWAY 

5_  R.  M.  CALKINS  GEO.  W.  HIBBARD 

,— ^^  '■^      if^^  --    ^-  ^      *  ^  Traffic  Manager  General  Passenger  Agent 


SEATTLE,  WASHINGTON 


I 


u.  c. 
;ademy  of 
siF^caAST] 


ANNOUNCEMENT    LEAFLET 


OF 


'ACROSS   THE   CONTINENT" 


CHICAGO 

Milwaukee 

^PU GET  SOUND  i 


THE  FIRST  BOOK 

OF   THE 

CHICAGO 

MILWAUKEE  &  PUGET  SOUND 

RAILWAY 


•ACROSS     THE     CONTINENT" 


1 1 


^^^^WSftnst6ook  —it's  different— this   book! 
M  Different  and  rich  in  honors.    \t  completes  the  chronicle 

a  ^^\  t^^t  Lewis  and  Clarke  began  a  hundred  years  ago. 
^VJI  It  begins  a  chronicle  that  will  be  in  progress  long,  long 
^^^  after  the  present  generation  shall  have  gone.  The 
Yesterday  of  the  great  Northwest  has  been  its  day  of  conquest 
and  reclamation.  And  within  these  covers  is  the  final  chapter 
of  the  history  of  that  day.  The  To-morrow  of  the  great  North- 
west is  its  day  of  development  and  growth.  And  between  the 
lines  of  what  is  written  here  stand  forth  the  brilliant  possibilities 
of  that  time. 

For  fourteen  hundred  miles  a  great  highway  hcis  been  hewn 
through  the  heart  of  this  long-veiled  domain,  and  its  wealth  and 
beauty  laid  bare.  Man  now  may  go  in  comfort  and  even  in 
luxury  where  heretofore  he  was  forbidden.  Enterprise  has 
opened  his  way  and  smoothed  his  path. 

Railways  have  ever  been  the  nation's  pioneers,  but  never 
before  has  so  great  a  service  been  so  speedily  accomplished. 
The  building  of  this  new  line  has  been  even  dramatic  in  its 
intensity.  Great  armies  of  men  have  labored  to  the  utmost  of 
their  strength;  millions  upon  millions  of  dollars  have  been 
expended  in  support  of  their  effort.  No  man  unfamiliar  with 
the  conditions  and  the  progress  that  was  made  will  ever  half 
appreciate  the  task;  no  man  who  participated  will  ever  forget  it 
or  ceaise  to  glory  in  the  part  he  played. 

It  is  done  now — done  well  and  thoroughly.  There  is  no 
finer  road  in  all  the  world — no  safer  one;  no  surer  one.  It 
completes  the  linking  of  the  Great  Lakes  to  the  western  sea,  the 
Father  of  Waters  to  the  Japan  Current. 

The  beauties  along  this  new  steel  trail  across  the  continent 
are  matchless.  The  day  will  come  when  they  will  be  recognized 
as  foremost  among  all  panoramjis  of  the  rail.  It  is  a  different 
scenery  from  that  of  other  routes — equally  stupendous,  infinitely 
more  varied  and  far,  far  richer  in  color. 

Of  the  wealth  and  progress  of  the  country  served,  the  pages 
of  this  book  tell  all  that  seems  possible  here.  This  newest 
Northwest  unfetters  man's  ambitions  and  fires  his  zeal  with  the 
thought  that  here  he  has  equality  of  opportunity.  He  will  sow 
diligently — and  he  will  reap  tremendously,  for  the  soil  is  virgin 
and  the  wealth  untouched.  In  view  of  these  things,  in  view  of 
what  has  been  and  is  yet  to  be,  it  might  be  well  to  keep  this 
book;  to  put  it  in  your  library;  to  save  it  for  your  children's 
children,  knowing  that  in  their  day  it  must  seem  the  truth  that 
is  indeed  "stranger  than  fiction." 


THE    ROAD'S    EARLY    HISTORY 

THE  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  Puget  Sound  Railway  first  grew 
into  the  knowledge  of   the  public,  during  its   formative 

days,  as  the  Pacific  Coast  extension  of  the  Chicago, 
Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  Road,  and  when  it  was  later  concluded 
to  dignify  the  new  transcontinental  line  with  an  individual  title, 
the  distinction  was  made  with  but  slight  difference,  "The  Puget 
Sound"  being  an  easy  complement  to  "The  St.  Paul."  The 
Puget  Sound  line  is  now  a  great  railroad  in  itself,  grown,  in  the 
few  years  since  its  inception,  into  an  importance  second  to  none. 
New  possibilitities  of  rapid  and  substantial  work  have  been 
revealed  in  its  construction,  and  its  completion  marks  an  epoch 
in  engineering  and  commercial  history. 

The  definite  location  of  the  line  was  finished  in  the  Dakotas 
and  in  western  Washington  during  the  winter  of  1905-6,  and  in 
the  following  Spring  the  first  shovelful  of  earth  was  turned  at 
Glenham,  S.  D.  Shortly  thereafter  construction  was  also 
commenced  near  Seattle,  and  from  that  time  forward  two 
mighty  armies  marched  steadily  onward  from  East  and  from 
West,  until  they  met  on  the  19th  day  of  May,  1909,  in  the 
valley  of  the  Hellgate  River,  near  Bearmouth,  Mont. 

The  highest  engineering  skill,  supplemented  by  great  con- 
struction forces  directed  by  master  minds,  has  secured  to  this 
company,  in  the  minimum  of  time,  the  shortest  line  to  the 
North  Pacific  Coast,  with  the  easiest  of  grades  and  curves. 

In  the  Fall  of  1907  the  railroad  was  in  operation  in  the 
Dakotas,  for  rails  were  laid  rapidly  and  traffic  was  waiting. 
Much  of  the  line  was  through  unsettled  country,  but  under 
the  aggressive  colonization  campaign  early  adopted,  immigra- 
tion preceded  construction.  Prosperous  towns  arose  as  if  by 
magic,  and  steam  plows  were  everywhere  breaking  ground 
for  the  settlers.  Thus  a  new  country  came  into  existence 
before  the  last  rail  was  in  place,  and  local  traffic  awaited 
only  the  arrival  of  the  locomotive. 

The  line  was  completed  to  Butte  in  the  September  of 
1908,  and  in  July,  1909,  through  freight  traffic  was  estab- 
lished from  Lake  Michigan  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

No  attempt  has  heretofore  been  made  to  attract  through 
travel  to  the  Puget  Sound  line,  but  now  that  every  mile  of  the 
railroad,  with  its  massive  bridges  of  steel  and  masonry,  its  rock 
and  concrete  tunnels,  and  its  substantial  and  well-ballasted 
roadbed,  have  been  tested  by  time  and  the  elements,  the  line  is 
thrown  open  to  the  public  by  the  inauguration  of  first-class 
through  passenger  service  between  Chicago  and  Tacoma  and 
Seattle.  Its  trains  of  solid  steel  construction,  with  appoint- 
ments and  furnishings  the  best  that  the  builders  could  supply, 
enable  the  new  road  to  offer  to  the  public  a  route,  a  service,  and 
a  degree  of  comfort  in  railway  travel  hitherto  unknown. 


Chicago,   Milwaukee   &   Puget   Sound   Railway 
For  additional  information  address: 

BUTTE,  MONT W.  P.  Waknes,  Asdrtant  General  Freight  and  Panenger  Agent 

CHICAGO,  ILL.,  1343  Railway  Exchange,  S.  M.  Earunc,  ABeistant  to  TraflSc  Manager 

CLEVELAND,  OHIO.  217  Williame  Building F.  E.  Clakk.  General  Agent 

MILES  CITY,  MONT W.  J.  Kekley,  DiviBion  Freight  and  Passenger  Agent 

PORTLAND,  ORE.,  Railway  Exchange  BIdg.,  3d  and  Stark. 

J.  R.  Veitch,  District  Freight  and  Pasaenger  Agent 
SEATTLE,  WASH.,  Cor.  2d  and  Cherry, 

A.  P.  Chapman,  Jk., General  Agent  Passenger  Department 
J.  L.  Criswell,  City  Ticket  Agent 

SPOKANE,  WASH.,  618  Riverside  Avenue. R.  L.  Ford,  Commercial  Agent 

TACO.MA,   WASH.,  1001  Pacific  Avenue F.  A.  Valentine,  City  Passenger  Agent 


R.  M.  CALKINS, 

Trafiic  Manager, 

Sbattlb. 


GEO.  W.  HIBBARD, 

General  Passenger  Agent* 

Sbattli. 


Also  apply  to  the  following 
PASSENGER   REPRESENTATIVES 

OF    THE 

CHICAGO,  MILWAUKEE  &   ST.  PAUL 
RAILWAY 

ABERDEEN,  S.  D o.  F.  Waller,  Division  Passenger  Agent 

BOSTON,  MASS.,  260  Washington  St J.  H.  Skillen,  New  England  Passenger  Agent 

BUFFALO,  N.  v..  303  Main  Street G.  H.  Wescott,  Commercial  Agent 

CEDAR  RAPIDS,  IOWA C.  J.  Mikesh,  Division  Passenger  Agent 

CHICAGO,  ILL.,  52  W.  Adams  St.  .  C.  N.  Souther,  General  Agent  Passenger  Department 
CINCINNATI,  OHIO,  204  Traction  BIdg.  . . .  C.  C.  Mordough.  Traveling  Passenger  Agent 
CLEVELAND,  OHIO,  426  Superior  Ave.,  N.  W.   ,  .  E.  G.  Hayden,  Traveling  Passenger  Agent 

DALLAS,  TEXAS,  Slaughter  BIdg.,  1017  Main  St J.  B.  Marshel,  Commercial  Agent 

DAVENPORT,  IOWA,  303  Brady  St P.  L.  Hinrichs.  Commercial  Agent 

DENVER,  COLO.,  821  Seventeenth  St Edward  Mahoney,  District  Passenger  Agent 

DES  MOINES,  IOWA,  410  Walnut  St C.  E.  Hilliker,  Division  Passenger  Agent 

DETROIT,  MICH..  212  Majestic  BIdg H.  W.  Steinhoff,  Michigan  Passenger  Agent 

DUBUQUE,  IOWA S.  N.  Baird,  Division  Passenger  Agent 

DULUTH,  MINN..  Palladio  BIdg C.  L.  Kennedy.  Commercial  Agent 

HOUGHTON,  MICH.,  78  Shelden  St H.  E.  Stewart.  Commercial  Agent 

KANSAS  CITY,  MO.,  907  Main  St G.  L.  Cobb.  Southwestern  Passenger  Agent 

LIVERPOOL,  ENG . .  |    '|  J^''^^^'s^|-    } J.  Jaceson  &  Sons.  European  Agent. 

LOS  ANGELES,  CAL..  130  West  Sixth  St E.  K.  Garrison,  Commercial  Agent 

MADISON.  WIS W.  W.  Winton.  District  Passenger  Agent 

MASON  CITY.  IOWA W.  F.  Cody,  Division  Passenger  Agent 

MILWAUKEE.  WIS..  400  East  Water  St W.  J.  Boyle.  General  Agent  Passenger  Dept. 

MINNEAPOLIS,  MINN.,  328  Nicollet  Ave.  C.  R.  Lewis,  City  Passenger  and  Ticket  Agent 

NEW  ORLEANS.  LA.,  517  Hibemia  Bank  BIdg Wm.  H.  Rogers.  Trav.  Pass'r  Agent 

NEW  YORK,  N.  Y.,  381  Broadway W.  W.  Hall.  General  Agent 

OMAHA.  NEB.,  1624  Famam  St F.  A.  Nash,  General  Western  Agent 

OTTUMWA,  IOWA W.  C.  Parker.  Division  Passenger  Agent 

PHILADELPHIA.  PA..  818  Chestnut  St. Geo.  J.  Lincoln.  Commercial  Agent 

PITTSBURG,  PA.,  Room  D.,  Park  BIdg John  R.  Pott.  District  Passenger  Agent 

SALT  LAKE  CITY,  UTAH,  319  S.  Main  St C.  S.  Williams.  Commercial  Agent 

SAN  FRANCISCO.  CAL..  Flood  BIdg..  22  Powell  St C.  H.  Miles.  Dist.  Pass'r  Agent 

SIOUX  CITY,  IOWA.  601  Fourth  St C.  N.  Curtis.  Division  Passenger  Agent 

ST.  LOUIS,  MO..  213  Frisco  BIdg.,  Ninth  and  Olive  Sts.  . .  H.  G.  Selbv,  Commercial  Agent 

ST.  PAUL.  MINN.,  365  Robert  St. W.  B.  Dixon.  Asst.  General  Passenger  Agent 

TAMPA,  FLA Jas.  F.  Taylor.  Commercial  Agent 

TORONTO.  ONT..  8  King  St.  East A.  J.  Taylor,  Canadian  Passenger  Agent 

WINNIPEG,  MAN.,  349  Main  St Thos.  Donald,  Commercial  Agent 


Across  the  Continent 


1 


POOLE 

CHICAGO 


^  PU GET  SOUND 


y 


I  "■;;■/:«*  ^Si'tS- 


,:}V-iSV 


,:'C;'a 


'y),HfS'/,ii;j;,',<fi-;i 


r<^m:'!': 


>f>h 


M^'m 


■I'l/' 


M 


i  fn 


>r(V* 


■:w;' 


.¥&:^!^ 


'''^'■':■^;vVl^^li'l 


